S
imple, informal and fun. That’s how Jonathan
Barthelmess sums up Greca, his new venture occupying
handsome waterfront quarters at Brisbane’s new
riverside precinct, Howard Smith Wharves.
“We wanted to create a local Greek restaurant –
taverna style – that’s all about simple eating,” he says. “Somewhere
you can just drop in for a glass of wine and some prawns, a Greek
salad, and spend, say, $30 – or else do the whole feasting thing
and have a banquet. It’s somewhere there’s always great music,
great drinks and a buzzy, fun vibe – nothing too serious.”
A follow-up to Sydney’s The Apollo (and its sister restaurant
in Ginza), Greca is a homecoming of sorts for Sydney-born and
Gold Coast-raised Barthelmess, whose parents hail from the Greek
island of Kastellorizo. The chef usually works with Longrain’s Sam
Christie – the pair own both Apollos, as well as Cho Cho San in
Potts Point – but in Brisbane he’s flying solo (although Christie
has helped out with the drinks list).
Long-term collaborator George Livissianis has designed
the interiors, and around half the 160 seats are alfresco.
“The Apollo is seven years old now,” Barthelmess says.
“Everything that I’ve been inspired by and learnt in between
now and then has been incorporated into Greca.” While the
original is the model, the aim is to expand on it, rather than
replicate it. Certain dishes have made the trip north, but have
been fine-tuned to suit the Queensland sun.
Reef fish, for example, is dressed with citrus and capers.
Moreton Bay bugs are enriched with nettle butter, and pipis are
paired with peas, sorrel and lemon. Organic chicken, meanwhile,
is rubbed with roasted garlic and confit lemon before being
butterflied and char-grilled. A fire-pit adds a little spark, while
savoury and sweet tarts, cakes, crispbreads and focaccia come
out of the stone-floor oven along with the pita.
It’s a lighter, breezier menu, with Hellenic hospitality at
the core. Even Barthelmess’s signature lamb shoulder has been
remastered. “The Brisbane version has a different flavour profile.
At The Apollo it’s more a dry spice rub, whereas here it’s more
tomato, lemon and rosemary-based,” he says. “I prefer it.”
The relaxed approach extends to Greca’s taramasalata,
a gluten-free version of the creamy, salty roe dip topped
with fish eggs, that can be ordered with a side of hot chips.
“You can also have it with pita bread,” says Barthelmess.
“But we were playing around one day and thought,
‘how good is that?’”
“It’s all about approachable food done in a way
that everyone can relate to and yet feel special about.”
What could be better to cook at home?
Greca, Howard Smith Wharves, 3/5 Boundary St,
Brisbane, QLD, (07) 3839 1203, greca.com.auGreca punchPitcher from Marimekko. Glasses from
The DEA Store. Bowl from The Potter B. All other
props stylist’s own.PREVIOUS PAGES (from left)
Side plate and small bowl from Splendid Wren
Ceramics. Lace plate and White Beach Sand
plate from Wonki Ware. Gold cutlery from Top3 by
Design. Brass and gold cutlery (used throughout)
from Inartisan. Small blue dish from Chinaclay.
Cherie Peyton bowl (with beans) from Claypool.
Spoon (with beans) from The DEA Store. White bowl
(with Greek salad) from Batch Ceramics. Side plates
(in stack) from Splendid Wren Ceramics. Small
bowl (with chilli) from Chef vs Clay. All other
props stylist’s own. Stockists p152.