GOURMET TRAVELLER 25
News
Sustainabilityrulesat Copenhagen’s
Amass,whereleftoverpeelingsareturned
intomiso,andspentoilbecomesbiofuel.
InAugust,therestaurantpostedanimage
ofsous-chefAndrewWallisholdingthe
last-everrollofclingfilmthatAmass
woulduse.Thisbreak-upwithclingfilm
- partofa five-yearprocessofremoving
alldisposableplasticat therestaurant–
ledtomanystrongresponses.One
Instagramuser(@fryedporkchop)
commentedthatditchingclingfilmwas
hardtodo,astheplasticwraphasmany
kitchenuses:poachingballotines,lining
terrinemoulds,evencreatinga cook’s
beltif theyforgetone.
InAustralia,manychefshavedecided
togiveupclingfilm.JoshLewisbanished
it fromFleet:theNSWrestaurant’slast
600-metrerollgota close-uponInstagram
beforeit wasgone.MelissaPalinkasat
YoungGeorgeinPerthhasresponded
tothemovementbyinvestingin
“indestructible”alternatives.“Mykitchen
andbaronlyuseCambrocontainers
now,”shesays.Forsomechefs,banning
cling film is simple: Ben Devlin never let it
intoPipit,hisnorthernNSWrestaurant,
inthefirstplace.“Itseemedeasierthan
startingwithit andtryingtoremoveit,”
hesays.Formethodsthatrelyonplastic
- likecookinginwaterbaths,forinstance
- heusesjarsandcontainersinstead.Tom
Haynesat BarangarooHouseinSydney
hasa similarstance:“Fromdayone,we’ve
neverusedclingfilmonanyofthelevels
acrossthevenue.”Whenit comesto,
say,makingterrine(whichusually
involvesliningmouldswithplastic),he
usesbeeswaxandothercookingpapers.
“Itcanbea littlebitmorecomplicated,
butit doeswork,”hesays.
Amass’schefandownerMatt
Orlandohasbeenusinglidsandapplying
newcookingmethodstosaveusing
100 kilogramsofclingfilm.“I have
notfounda waythatusesplasticin
thecookingtechniquethattastesbetter
thanwhencookedwithoutusingplastic,”
hesays.“Ofcourse,it takesa littlemore
finesse,butisn’tthatthebestpartabout
beinga chef?I thinkthatit’sworthit
if wecanmakethingsmoredelicious
while being responsible.”
It’s a wrap
CopenhagenrestaurantAmassdeclaredit wasdone
with cling film – and others followed its lead.
You’vegotale
GelatoMessinahascreatedsomething
thatdoesn’tmelt:thebrandhas
teamedupwithAustralianBreweryto
makeanalethat’sflavouredwith
thetonnesofdulcedelechethatthe
gelati-makercranksouteveryweek.
Findit ontapatvariouspubsandbars
or at bottle shops.gelatomessina.com
Cruisecontrol
Theworld’sfirstbattery-hybrid
poweredcruiseshiptheMSFridtjof
Nansenhasjustbeencompleted
andis readytosetsailonoceans
acrosstheworld.Following
successfulseatrials,theHurtigruten
lineris offeringa seriesofspecial
pre-inauguralvoyages,departing
fromLondon(7March),Liverpool
(12March)andPortsmouth
(17March),witheachtripexploring
destinationsincludingIslesofScilly,
Aalborg,IsleofManandOslo.The
hybridbattery-poweredsolutionis
oneofa seriesofgreeninitiatives
Hurtigrutenhasdeployed,along
withgettingridofsingle-use
plastics,andrebuildingitsfleet
ofexistingshipstobepowered
bybatterypacks,liquefied
naturalgasandbiogas.
hurtigruten.com.au
Sous-chef
AndrewWallis
withAmass’slast
roll of cling film.