I firsthadtheprivilegeofcollaborating
withDwayneBannon-HarrisonwhenI was
invitedtocurateoneofCarriageworks’
SummerNightMarkets.I wasstruckby
hisinnaterespectandwarmthtowards
allbeings,combinedwithhisextraordinary
knowledgeandwisdomabouthis
countryandMotherEarth.If I thinkabout
sustainabilityin termsofmaintaininga
balancebetweendifferentpartsofsocietyandtheenvironment,
Bannon-Harrison,throughhisinspiringculturalandculinary
practices continues to teach so much, to so many of us.N
ativeingredientsandIndigenouscooking
techniqueshavefoundtheirwayintosome
ofAustralia’stopkitchensinrecentyears,
asmoreandmorechefsturntheirgaze
closertohomeandlooktoconnectwiththepeople,
communitiesandlandscapearoundthem.
DwayneBannon-Harrisonhasbeenat the
forefrontofthismovement,workingwithsomeof
thecountry’sleadingchefsbysharinghisinvaluable
knowledgeandwisdom,andculturalinsights.
A YuinmanfromtheShoalhavenregionof
NewSouthWales,Bannon-Harrisonis themanaging
directorofNgaranNgaranCultureAwareness,an
organisationthatseekstosharetheculturalpractices
andknowledgeoftheworld’soldestliving culture.
Healsorunsa cateringcompany,
MirrityaMundya– whichmeans
hungryblackfish– withhiswife
Amelia.Thepairusesmoke,fire
andIndigenousingredientsto
createaccessibleanddelicious
dishestoserveviatheircustom
foodtrailerandat pop-upevents.
“Therearearound 6000
Indigenousflavoursthrough
proteins,vegetables,nutsand
fruits,”saysBannon-Harrison.
“It’squitephenomenal.”
Withsomanycomplexflavoursandexperiences
tobediscovered,AustralianchefssuchasKylie
Kwong,BenShewryandCurtisStonehaveall
turnedtoBannon-Harrisonforguidanceontheir
Indigenousculinaryjourneys.
“We’rereallyconsciousofhelpingchefstofind
their connection with community and to enjoy it,whetherit’sa seasonalwitchettygrubcollectedfrom
northernVictoriaorgreenantsfromManingrida
intheNorthernTerritory,”hesays.“Ifthesechefsare
reallyseriousaboutit,there’sa codeofethics,andthat
comesbacktoculturalprotocolandpractice...They’re
goingtohavetodigintothatworldanddothework.”
Asmorechefsandbusinessesengageinthese
journeys,a permanentplaceforIndigenousculture
is beingestablishedwithintheculinaryindustry.
“ThemoreAboriginalpeopleinvolvedintheindustry
inAustraliatoday,thebetterit is forthecountry,”
saysBannon-Harrison.“Whetherrestaurantswork
towardsa higherIndigenousemploymentfigure,
orevenintegrateIndigenouselementsintothe
menuorambienceoftherestaurant.”
Hebelievesit’sbetterfortheearth,too.“The
morenativesinthegroundmeansthecountryis
goingtobehealthierandrejuvenated,havingthe
plantsit oncehad.Healtheland,healthepeople.”
Bannon-Harrisonlearnedtheseteachingsfromhis
grandfather,YuinelderUncleMax“Dulumunmun”
Harrison,wholearnedfromfivemastersof Aboriginallore.
“Seasonalityis onething.Andtheotheroneis,weonly
takewhatweneed.Thatis,culturallyas weputit,a law.”
Bannon-Harrisonhopestheuseofnativeingredients
inmodernAustraliancuisinewillkeepgrowing,along
withthepresenceofIndigenousentrepreneurs,andfor
bothtoholdtheirownontheworldstage.“It’sabout
pushing those messagesout– we’rehere,we’rekicking
and,excusethepun,theworldis
a massiveoysterforus,”hesays.
Inthefuturehe’dlovetosee
anIndigenousfoodalleyinSydney,
alongwithanincreasedpresencein
thetourismmarket.Alongwiththis,
Bannon-Harrisonhopeshisfood
willcontinuetoconnectpeople
andbreakdownbarriers.
“Wehavea veryinconsistentand
complexhistorywiththiscountry,”
hesays.“We’restartingtobecome
veryawareandsomeofusareacceptingit forwhatit is,
andcomingtogetherwithAboriginalpeoplearoundthe
table.Foodis a connector– it bringspeopletogether.”
Butit’sa journey,Bannon-Harrisonsays,that
willneverreallyend.“Whenpeopleaskhowchefs
canproperlyengagewithAboriginalcommunities...
It’ssobroad,becausenoonewilleverknow
everything. And that’s the beautiful thing.”●“We’rereally
consciousof
helping chefs
tofind their
connectionwith
communityand
to enjoy it.”GOURMET TRAVELLER 37WORDS
JORDAN
KRETCHMER
(MAIN)
&
KYLIE
KWONG
(INTRODUCTION).
PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW (DWAYNE BANNON-HARRISON) & PENNY LANE (KYLIE KWONG).