T
rialbyfirewasjustthestart.
ShortlyafterchefAdam
Sanderson,hisCVbristling
withnameslikeNoma,FatDuckand
Cutler& Co,tookonthekitchenat
TenMinutesbyTractorin2018,fire
chewedthroughhalf-a-milliondollars’
worthofwineandcausedenough
damagetoclosetherestaurant.
Nextcametrialbycouncil
regulationandrebuildingthatmeant
twoyearsbeforetherestaurant
re-opened.A beautifulrenovation
byCoxArchitectureexpandedthe
original1930sbuilding,deckedit
outinstone,marble,brass,timber
anddiscreetshadesofblueand
green,addeda privateroom,new
terraceandimpressive,purpose-built
kitchen.Thencametrialnumber
three,thepandemic.
It’sshakingyour fist at the sky
kind of stuff.Giventhesteadyhumofmisfortune,
it’sremarkablehowseamlesslythis
fine-dinerhasre-opened,theonly
rippleonitssmoothsurfacebeingthe
businessofsecuringa table.There’s
nostrainingtore-establishorrefocus.
It’salreadyfullythere,whichis good,
giventhatit’s$165a head before you
spotthewinelist.
Theclean-linedroom,bathedin
naturallight,nailstheelegantcasual
vibe,thetableswell-spacedand
attendedbystaffwhoknowwhen
tobeattentive.Thewinelistis
impressive,highlightingtheestate’s
ownoutputagainsta backdropof
expertlymadeclassicandnatural
winesfromAustraliaandtheworld.
Thefourexcellentwine-matching
optionsfromheadsommelierXavier
Vigierareallworthconsideration.
Sanderson’sfoodis superb,
cherry-picking the best local produceandmixingit withstuffsourced within
Victorianstateboundaries.
Snacksincludetinycrumpets
toppedwithglazedlambtongueand
pickledcucumber,tempura-battered
brinedchickenoystersteamedwitha
burntleekemulsionandheavenlyduck
liverparfaitencasedin chouxpastry.
Largerdishesonthesix-course
menuarecomplexbutnever
overloaded.Everythingontheplate
hasa purpose,aswithpaper-thinsliced
squidteamedwithcrab,shiso,shellfish
crackersanda toe-curlinglygood
fermentedtomatowater.Samegoes
witha cloud-likebrinedandblowtorch-
finishedgroperservedwithcharred
broadbeans,roastedkelpand tangy
MainRidgegoat’swhey.
Twodessertsmightincludea Meyer
lemonnumberthatsuccessfullymelds
thelemonwitha whitechocolateand
yuzucream,lemon myrtle ice-cream
andpuffpastry.
TenMinutesbyTractormightbethe
epitomeofstrengththroughadversity.
It’s also a must-do for fine-dining fans.●Thisfine-diningcomebackisa must-visitforitssuperb
menu and impressive wine , writesMICHAEL HARDEN.A FINE TIME
Fromfarleft:Mary’ssalad,MossyWillow
vegetableswithMainRidgegoat’scheese.
Below:LakesEntrancesquid,crab,shiso
andshellfishcracker.Opposite:themodern
dining room at Ten Minutes by Tractor.THEDESTINATI
ON
Mornington
Peninsula,
Vic38 GOURMET TRAVELLERReview