AstoldtoJessicaRiggfor
TheLocalTongue. Formore
chef’sguidesfromaroundthe
world, seethelocaltongue.comClockwisefrom
right:sheep
tartarewith
marinated
blackturnipat
Tipografia
Alimentare;bao
“delgiorno”at
Kanpai;Marco
Marone(from
left),MattiaGrilli
andFrederico
FioreofNebbia.
Opposite:Duomo
di Milano.
Classic Italian
Rovello 18 is anoldandcharming
restaurantwithsimple,classicItalian
food.Youmightstartwithcharcuterie
orsomesausagewithpolentaand
thenmovetohomemadepastasand
grilledmeatorfish.It’slikeanosteria,
onlya littlemorechic.It’s old-school
romance at its best.Late-night snacks
and sake
Afterservice,you’llusuallyfindme
atKanpai,a Japaneseizakayaopen
until2am.I lovethevibeandthe
food,andtheowneris a goodfriend.
It serves typical izakaya dishes:A chef’s guide
Drinking cocktails
in style
Forcocktails,I lovetovisit1930.
It’sa veryspecialplaceforme.Asyou
canprobablyguessfromthename,
everythingis in thestyleofthe1930s.
Themusicis alwaysgood– usually
swingorlivepiano.It’sa secret
speakeasy,withnowebsiteoronline
address.Youfirstenterthrougha
veryuglybar,thenarebroughttoa
doorhiddenin theback.In summer,
I loveCeresio7, a rooftopbarwith
a swimmingpool.Thebartender
is oneofthebestinItaly.Youcan
drinkgreatcocktails with a beautiful
view of Milan.Natural wine
and solidarity
Newnaturalwinebarandshop,
E/NEnotecaNaturaleis veryspecial.
Thebuilding– anabandoned1940s
school– is locatedinoneofthe
mostbeautifulplacesinMilan,the
pedestrian-onlyViaSantaCroce,
andhasa huge,lovelygarden,which
is hardtofindinthecitycentre.But
it’snotonlyspecialbecauseofits
beauty:thebarpromotessocial
inclusionofasylumseekerswith
traineeships.Thestaffareyoung
and passionate about natural wine.Learn about Italy’s
best natural
winemakers
If youlovenaturalwinelikeme,you
mustvisitVinoir,a relaxedenoteca
nearthecanal.Theowner,Gianluca
Ladu,is oneofthemostimportant
sommeliersin thecityandwasone
ofthefirsttosellnaturalwinein
Milan.He’shardcore:veryprepared,
passionateanduncompromising.He
onlypoursnaturalwine,andwitheach
bottlethereis a story.Hisstorytelling
is reason enough to visit, really.●agedashitofu,karaagechicken,
okonomiyaki.I alwaysorderthe
natto,a traditionaldishoffermented
soybeans. It’s super-funky, but I love it.Countryside escape
Myfavouriteis TrattoriadelGallo,a
verytypicalcountrysidetrattoriaonly
20 minutesbycarfromthecentre
ofMilan.Thisis whereyoucaneat
authenticandsimpleLombardy
cuisinelikecotolettaandrisottoalla
Milanese.Itswinecellaris asdeepas
itshistory– therestaurantdatesback
to 1870 – withold,hard-to-findbottles
aswellasnaturalwine.It’sbeautiful
in summertositin thegardenandit’s
cosyin winter.It’sthekindofplaceto
visit on Sunday for a long family lunch.Vegetables, as
nature intended
Thenameofmyrestaurantis Trippa,
butI usuallyonlyeatvegetables,
whichis whyI loveTipografia
Alimentare.Themenufocuseson
vegetables,anddishesarehighly
seasonalandcookedandseasoned
verysimply.Theproduceis asnatural
andethicalaspossibleandthis
philosophyextendsbeyondthefood
tothewineandbeer.Thecoffee
is great,too.It hasa hipstervibe
includingrandomvintagefurniture,
butit’snotpretentious.Theserviceis
simple,andthepeopleareverykind.
You feel good when you are here.GOURMET TRAVELLER 143