Australian Gourmet Traveller - (03)March 2020 (1)

AND ALSO...

Tedesca

Osteria

1175 Mornington-

FlindersRd,

RedHill,

tedesca.com.au

OpenFri-Mon

noon-4.30pm;

Sat6.30pm-late

Prices$110for

fivecourses

Vegetarian

Onrequest

NoiseConvivial

Wheelchair

accessYe s

MinusThe

needfora

designateddriver

PlusAnoriginal

additionto

theVictorian

dining scene

Details

CHAMPAGNETASTE

ChefPierreKhodja(Camus)is at

thehelmofPinchy’sChampagne

& LobsterBar. Thebarvibeis well

servedbya multitudeofneonsigns,

a colourschemethatskewspink

andgold,andthepresenceoftwo

bars.Thesustainable-seafoodmenu

listsMainelobsterrolls(above),

prawn-headrollswithseaurchin

aioli,anexcellentoctopusand

potatosaladanda crabtaco.

Thehugebalconyis primeposition

whentheweather’sbalmy.Level1,

200 BourkeSt,Melbourne, pinchys.co

CLASSICHITS

Cook& Norman,theItalian

restaurantonFlinders’mainstreet,

is nowDonnaMariaRistorante.

Themenu’sdialis setto“crowd-

pleasing”witha greatesthits

offeringthatincludescotoletta

allaMilanese,spaghettiai gamberi,

bonemarrowandGranaPadano

risotto,andkingfishcrudowith

a lemonandanchovydressing.

Thewinelistwillpleasethe

Italophiles. 52 CookSt,Flinders,

(03) 5989 0160,donnamaria.com.au

BAKER’SDELIGHT

TheteambehindBarLibertyand

CapitanohasturneditsoldRockwell

andSonsspaceintoa bakerycalled

Falcoandtakenona newpartner

intheprocess.ChristineTranis a

bakerwitha CVthatincludesTivoli

RoadBakeryandSanFrancisco’s

Tartine,andherrepertoirerunsto

hand-shaped,organicflourloaves,

pies(includingexcellentsmoked

chickenandleek)andchocolate

andhalvabrownies.It’sa small-

batchbakerysothingsdosellout

quickly. 288 SmithSt, Collingwood,

falcobakery.com

Frombelow:anantique

stoneram’sheadhangs

abovethewoodfiredgrill

andoven;a woodpileat

the property’s entrance.

availableintheareaand,while

thestructureofthemealmightbe

basedonanItalianosteria,Tedesca

doesn’tsticktoItalyforitsflavours.

Theremightbedolmades

madewithvineleavesharvested

thatmorningfromHafner’sown

garden(sheandNesslivetwo

doorsdownfromtherestaurant)

andfilledwitha Turkish-stylemix

ofrice,cinnamon,cloves,mint,

currantsandpinenuts.Thetexture

oftheleavesis gloriousandthey

breakcleanlywhenbitteninto.

Thesemightbeaccompanied

bya Greek-stylefavaandhorta,the

yellowsplitpeapuréeaccompanied

byamaranth,cookedtoorderin

saltedwaterandarrivingsoftand

wilted,flavouredwithgarlicand

lemonjuice.It’svibrantstuff,

comfortingandfortifying,much

likethepan-friedhaloumithat’s

servedwithroastedwalnuts,sumac,

cucumber,thymeandpurslane.

Thefishcoursemightbe

trumpeter,a robustalmostmeaty

fish that takes well to being grilled

overcoals.It’saccompaniedby

mojorojo,a CanaryIslandsauce

madewithgrilledredpeppers,

redchillies,rawandroastedgarlic

andredwinevinegar.There’s

a romesco-saucequalitytoit,

butwitha littlemorekick.

Hafnermaybelegendaryfor

hertalentwithporkbutif the

abbacchioallaRomanais being

slow-cookedinthewoodfiredoven

youwon’tfeelshort-changed.It’s

sucklinglamb,cutonthebone,

cookedwithfreshherbs,white

wineandstockina parmesan

andbreadcrumbcrust.

Thewinelistat Tedescais

assembledbyJamesBroadway,

Hafner’sbusinesspartnerat the

GertrudeStreetEnoteca.It’sa

compact,cleverlistthatleans

towardsthebiodynamic,hovers

aroundtheMorningtonPeninsula,

butalsorangesfurther.Theremight

bepinotnoirfromlocalproducer

Avani,a skin-contactwhiteblend

fromAdelaideHillsproducer

Manon,TuscanChiantiorFrench

PetitChablisfromChristophe.

A localrosémoscatofrom

Quealyis anidealmatchfora

dessertliketheberrytart,encased

inoneofthebestshortcrustpastries

you’reeverlikelytocomeacross.

TedescaOsteriais bothfamiliar

andsomethingcompletelynew.

Thesenseofrelaxedhospitality

andBrigitteHafnergivenfullrein

inherownkitchenis a powerfully

goodcombination. Put it on your

must-do list.●

GOURMET TRAVELLER 47

Melbourne review

PHOTOGRAPHY

JAMES

BROADWAY

(DINING

ROOM

&FISH),

ADRIAN

LANDER

(PORTRAIT, RAM & WOOD) & JANA LONGHURST (PINCHY’S CHAMPAGNE & LOBSTER BAR).