PHOTOGRAPHY RÉMI CHAUVIN (
EAT THE PROBLEM
). ANNA KUČERA (ANDY EVANS) & EVAN SUNG (STICK WITH ME SWEETS).
News
ON THE PASSAndy, congratulations on Spice Temple’s 10th birthday.
Do you recall your first day there? I remember it well. It
was my daughter Lola’s first birthday and I had to duck out
of her birthday party so I could get to the kitchen and prep.
What were highlights from your Spice Temple research
trips with chef Neil Perry? I had no idea that many of
the provincial embassies in Beijing and Shanghai had
restaurants. At the Yunnan embassy, we discovered a
really good slice of rubing, which is like haloumi. Wok-fried
with Sichuan salt and pepper, it was amazing. Our braised
lamb with steamed bread pockets were inspired by those
we had at the Xinjiang embassy.
I hear your fish-drowned-in-heaven-facing-chilli dish
recalls a near disaster in a Shanghai restaurant. Neil
turned to see a trainee chef holding a smoking vat of
chilli oil with two tea towels, just inches from his head.
It was a terrifying moment that turned into a breathtaking
eating experience. The smoking oil was poured into
a pot on the table, fresh green Sichuan peppercorns
were added, followed by fresh chillies, onions, pork
belly, beef and the whole lot was left to simmer.
Your knives have an interesting backstory. I’ve had
my cleavers for about 15 years. The heaviest is a Chinese
barbecue cleaver I use to break down large marrow bones
and joints of meat. I named it Sleeping Elephant after
I cut myself badly and nearly broke a finger. I also have
a medium-weight cleaver, Creeping Panther, which is used
to cut up pork belly. My smallest cleaver, Black Jasmine,
is finer and sharper and used to slice vegetables finely.
Spice Temple’s menu warns diners of particularly
hot dishes. How much chilli can you endure? My chilli
tolerance is pretty high. When I visit a Hunanese or
Sichuan restaurant, I can handle most things. I usually
ask them to go full throttle.
And how would you rate Neil Perry’s capacity for spice?
I wouldn’t be keen to take on Neil in a chilli-eating contest.
He’s sure to win.
Spice Temple, 10 Bligh St, Sydney, NSW, (02) 8099 7088,
spicetemple.com.auStick With Me Sweets is a Manhattan chocolate shop run by Susanna Yoon, a former Per Se pastry
chef. Her bonbon range includes Kalamansi Meringue Pie and New York, New York, inspired by the
city’s pretzel and candied-peanut stands (think of it as a taste of Times Square). swmsweets.comAndy Evans
SPICE TEMPLE, SYDNEY