AstoldtoJessicaRiggfor
TheLocalTongue. Formore
chef’sguidesfromaroundthe
world, seethelocaltongue.comClockwisefrom
right:charred
Portuguese
cozidowith
cabbageat
Belcanto;
Jerusalem
artichokewith
mustardseeds
atBecoCabaret
Gourmet;
Belcanto’sdining
room.Left:a
view of Lisbon.
restaurant,thereverysoon.Itsfocus
willstillbeonseafood,butwewillbe
bringingthoseingredientstogether
in a more contemporary way.The best seafood
ForseafoodincentralLisbon,go
toCervejariaRamiro.It’sverygood,
butit’sfulloftourists.I stillliketo
bringpeoplethere,butpreferably
whenit’slesscrowded.It’spopular
fora goodreason:theingredients
areverygood.Lookoutforblue
lobster,crayfishandcarabineros
(scarletprawns).Youmusthave
bulhãopatoclams(clamswith
lemon, olive oil and garlic).Traditional dishes
Maganois a neighbourhood
restaurantwherelocalslovetogo.It
servestraditionalfoodfromAlentejo,
southofPortugal.It’shonestcooking,
usingfantasticingredientstomake
typical,flavourfuldishes.Besure
togeta fewstarterstoshare– the
rice and cod dishes are amazing.A chef’s guide
firstchefstocreateandcook
modernPortuguese.Hewasthe
firsttodevelopcreativedishes
usingtraditionallocalflavours.
AntónioGalapito’sPradohas
a lotofLondoninfluence,probably
fromhistimeasprotégéofchef
NunoMendesinLondon.The
Portugueseingredientsarealways
thestar,andimpressivesmokingand
fermentation techniques are used.New hotspot
NewcomerTabernadoCalhauis
thehottestreservationintown
rightnow.Architect-turned-chef
LeopoldoGarciaCalhautakestypical
dishesfromAlentejoandmakes
themcreativeandcontemporary
bybringinghisownidentitytothe
plate. It’s interesting and delicious.Culture club
ReidaChina,meaningKingof
China,is a restaurantthatI helped
myfriendEstanisCarenzoopen.
He’sanArgentinianchefcooking
Portuguese-Asiancuisine.Culturally,
it’sveryinteresting.ThePortuguese
werethefirstEuropeanstoarrive
inmostAsiancountries,sothere’s
a lotofinfluences:whatwetook
withus,andwhatwebroughtback
here to Portugal. It’s beautiful food.Portuguese tarts
I mightbebiased,butI thinkthe
PastéisdeNataatmyrestaurant
BairrodoAvillezarethebest.The
second best are at Manteigaria.Regional tastes
ToeatthetastingmenuatBelcanto
is totravelaroundPortugal.It helps
youunderstandourculture.Themenu
visitsregionalcuisineandis inspired
byourcountry’spast;ex-coloniesand
the discoveries of the Portuguese.●Locals who lunch
ZédaMourariais whereI bring
friendsandchefswhenthey'rein
town.It’sa tasca– a casualrestaurant
that’sfulloflocals.It’sonlyopen
forlunchandoffersaboutsixdishes
perday.OnFridaysandSaturdays,
tryitsspecialty:beautifulgrilled
codwithchickpeasandonions.
It’s simple food with a lot of identity.Modern twist
TascadaEsquinais a contemporary
restaurant by Vítor Sobral: one of theSunday lunch
OnSundaysI liketohavelunchwith
myfamilyatMardoInferno,a seafood
restaurantin Cascais,mybirthplace.
It’sa 25-minutedrivefromLisbon,
soit’seasytogetto.It’sontheocean,
bya fishermen’svillage.Wealways
orderbruxas,a smalltype of lobster.
My kids go crazy for it.Room with aview
OnthewaytoCascaisbeachis
EstradadoGuincho:a roadthathas
twoorthreerestaurantsthatarein
themostamazingspots.Thereareno
housesnearby– onlysanddunesand
thesea.It reallyhasthemostmagical
view.It’stheperfectplacetorelax.
We’re actually opening Maré, our newGOURMET TRAVELLER 133