Top
drops
of
the
month 2009 ChandonLate
DisgorgedRosé,
Multi-regional,$125
Nineyears’ageingon
yeastleesbringssubtle
complexitytothissavoury
rosésparkling.Hints
ofstonefruit,complex,
creamyanddry.
chandon.com.au
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2017 VickeryReserve
Riesling,Watervale,$32
Finally,thekingofAussie
rieslinghasa pairof
seriouslycellar-worthy
reservewinesunderhis
ownlabel.Ofthetwo,
thisis mypick:intense,
limey,stunningvalue.
vickerywines.com.au
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2019 BrashHiggins
ZBO,Riverland,$39
Muscatgrapesfermented
andmaturedonskinsin
amphoraeundera layer
offloryeastfor 150 days:
luscious,sweetandspicy,
butalsotexturaland
bonedryonthetongue.
brashhiggins.com
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2017 VillaMariaOrganic
Merlot,Hawke’sBay,$20
Lovelyexpressionof
themerlotgrape,grown
organicallyin Hawke’sBay.
Enticingherbalblackfruit
aromatics,medium-weight
juiciness,fine,powdery
tanninsonthetongue.
Importedbyhofw.com.au
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2018 Adam’sEvening
TwoFruitsCider,
YarraValley,$25
Refreshingcloudy
farmhousecidermade
fromwild-fermented,
barrel-agedpearsand
apples.Roastporkand
coleslawrolls,please.
adamsevening.com
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ofhopsintheirfirsttwoyearsofgrowing,
whichis astounding.It showshowgood
thesoilwas.Andthat’sbecauseAboriginal
peoplehadgoodcustodianshipofthe
land,andthat’swhereweneedtogetto.
Ashopgrowersweseethatas ourgoal.”
ChrisandGabMooredecidedtomove
fromSydneytoOrbostinEastGippsland,
Gab’soldhometown,whentheirsecond
childwasontheway(theyhavesincehad
another).WhentheysetuptheSailor’s
GraveBrewinginthetown’soldbutter
factorytheyquicklyrealisedtheywould
onlybeabletobuilda sustainablebusiness
byengagingwiththelocalcommunity.
“Whatwerealisedsettingupin
smalltownlikeOrbostis,it’sallabout
people,”saysChris.“We’daskthe
locals:whathaveyougot?A lemontree,
blueberries?Canweputit inourbeer?
Thatcreatedsomecommunityinterest.
We’retryingtobuilda commonpurpose.”
Gabseespotentialforrevivinglocal
interestinagriculture.Shehasjoinedthe
Orbostshowcommittee,andis engaging
localfarmerstogrowbarley,toencourage
moreofa connectionwiththebrewery.
“AfterI leftOrbosthigh-school,
I thought,I’mouttahere,I’mnever
comingback,”saysGab.“Nowourkids
gotothelocalschoolandI’msoglad
we’rebackthere.I’msogladthatwe’re
partofmakinga changeinthetown.”
Listeningtothesepeoplemademe
feelconnected,throughspaceandtime,
totheprocessofbeerproduction,from
thepaddocktomypalate.It reinforcedmy
viewthat– as hop-growerJadeMcManus
putit – thebestwayweas consumers
canhelpensurethesustainabilityofthis
processis tobuythebeersthatsupport
thefarmerswhohavegoodenvironmental
practices.Tocreatea networkofcommon
purpose,bythinkingaboutallthepeople
whomakebeerpossible.●
Fromfarleft:Wildflowerbeers;hop
farmerJadeMcManusofRyefield
HopsspeaksatWaratahDayin
2019;nativeflowersdecoratethe
hall; 2019 WildflowerStPhoebe
RaspberryWildAle;GabandChris
MooreofSailor’sGraveBrewing,
WaratahDayin2019;beersontap.
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GOURMET TRAVELLER 43
Drinks
PHOTOGRAPHY RYAN MEERS (WILDFLOWER).