GOURMET TRAVELLER 129
ofMilan’smostpopularenoteche,forsundowners
instyle.“Graba mid-afternoonSpritzonthefootpath
andgetabsorbedintotheaperitivobuzz,”saysMark
Protheroe.“Oncethesunstartstofade,headto
thesubterraneanlevelandperusethewallslined
witha collectionofover 600 listingsthatventures
deeplyintoalltheregionsofItaly.”Whileyou’re
at it,askabouttheextensiveprogramofwine
tastingsandlivemusic.ViaSanMarco2, 20121
Milan, +39 02 659 9650, nombradevin.it
ChampagneSocialist,Milan
Theonlypoliticalstancetakenatthisindustrial
boltholeofa winebaris a steadfastcommitmentto
lo-fiwinesfromsmall,eclecticoutfitsacrossEurope
- andtheliststretchesto 500 ofthem.Winelovers
witha penchantfordimmedlightsandcramped
quarterswillfindthemselvesrightat homehere.“It’s
a placewhereI liketogolaterat night,”saysGiorgio
DeMaria.Pricesbytheglasshoveraroundfiveeuros,
whichmakesforanaffordablejauntthroughthe
unfined,unfilteredandunsulphured.ViaLecco
1, 20124 Milan, +39 02 204 7295, socialist.wine
TrattoriaDaCesarealCasaletto,Rome
Thethoughtfulwineofferingat thisfullyrealisedvision
oftheidealsuburbantrattoriaunitesclassicswith
heroes(Radikon)andnewcomerstothenatural-wine
scene(Lammidia)at affordableprices.Inotherwords,
it’saninvitationtogoall-out,madeallthemore
enticingbythepergola-shadedterrace,faultlessfritti
andimpeccableprimi.“Whenfoodis as simpleas
carbonara,youreallyhavetonailit,”saysHarryLevy,
chefandco-ownerofSydney’sDonPeppino’s,
“andDaCesarealwaysnailsit.”ViadelCasaletto
45, 00151 Rome, +39 06 536 015, trattoriadacesare.it
RoscioliSalumeriaconCucina,Rome
Roscioliis a nameonjustabouteverybody’slips
whenit comestoessentialplacestoeatanddrink
inthecaputmundi.“Itprobablytopsmylistwhen
consideringbothfoodandwine,”saysMichela
Boncagni,co-ownerandheadsommelierat LuMiin
Sydney.“AskforboththeItalianandinternational
winelists,”shesays,“andyoumightspendmostofthe
mealpickingyourpoison.”Thedeli-wine-bar-restaurant
fillsfastbuttakesbookingsuntil11.45pm.Makeit a
lateone,andraisea Zaltoglasstomidnightsnacking,
Romanstyle.ViadeiGiubbonari21/22,00186 Rome,
+39 06 687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com➤