Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

GOURMET TRAVELLER 141

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (MAIN).

STAY

CremeriaSantoStefano

Fromtheportico,theappearanceof

CremeriaSantoStefano(above)is more

Parisianpâtisseriethangelateria.Inside,

though,thedisplaycaseis crammed

withtubsofgelato.Flavoursrangefrom

classicssuchaspistachiotooriginals

suchascremadellezitellemadewith

mascarponeandpinenuts.Scoops

areavailableincups,conesorstuffed

intobrioche.ViaSanto Stefano 70/c

VâghíñUfézzí

Thisosteriais utterlytraditional,serving

curedmeatswithlard-friedcrescentine

(flatbreads),plumpbalanzoni(spinach

tortellonifilledwithgroundporkand

ricotta)andmeatymainssuchasbollito

misto.Themenuchangesdailyandit’s

short– a groupoffourcouldeasily

devourtheentirelist – butalwaysoffers

a satisfyingarrayofBolognesecomfort

food.Viade’Coltelli9/c,vaghinufezzi.it

All’OsteriaBottega

Thisplaceis seriousaboutitscured

pork,evidentintheimpressivecabinetof

hangingculatelli,prosciutto’sprestigious

cousin.Ordermixedsalumi,rangingfrom

curedbackfattomortadella.Followwith

lasagneverde,spinachpastalayeredwith

ragùandbesciamella,thenbakeduntil

theedgesarecrispandcaramelised.Its

tagliatellealragùBologneseandtortellini

inbrodoarealsothebestexamplesofthe

Bologneseclassicstobefoundoutside

home kitchens.Via Santa Caterina 51

I PorticiThisartnouveaubuildingnearthe

maintrainstationhasminimalistroomsand

suitesenlivenedby19th-centuryfrescoes

onwallsandceilings.Likethecityitself,the

hotelis focusedonfood,witha Michelin-starred

restaurant,pizzeria,bistroandbar,aswellasa

bottegadowntownspecialisinginpastaall’uovo.

Via dell’Indipendenza 69, iporticihotel.com

TagliaviniCollectionThedeconsecrated

churchofSanColombanohousesthenewly

restoredTagliaviniCollection(above),oneofthe

world’sfinestmuseumsofmusicalinstruments.

Amongabout 70 organs,harpsichords,pianos

andspinetsareraremasterpiecesthatdate

back to the 16th century.Via Parigi 5

Even ina cityfullofexcellentfoodshops, MercatoAlbaniisspecial.Stallschampion

localproduce,while butcherssellcutsreadyforragù.Il Pollaio,a former poultry

shop turned wine bar, features natural wines and small plates.Via Francesco Albani

AnticaAguzzeriadelCavallostarted

outin 1783 sellingknivesandfishing

andhuntinggear.Sixgenerationslater,

theBernagozzifamily’sselectionof

handcraftedbrasspastatoolsand

carbon-steelpastakniveswouldbe

theenvyofanyprofessionalkitchen.

Via Drapperie 12/b, aguzzeriadelcavallo.it

Don’t

miss

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