Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

SavethedatesforTasteofKakadu,10-19May,

KakaduNationalPark;TerritoryTasteFestival,25-

May,Darwin;LovedaleLongLunch,18-19May,Hunter

Valley;NoosaFoodandWineFestival,16-20May;

andGrampiansGrapeEscape,4-5May,HallsGap.

BeciOrpin’splantingguide

posterwasinitiallymade

fora gardeningexhibition

atMrKitly,but,likea good

perennial,it’shada much

longerrun.Finditatthe

Melbournestore,andstart

sowing– Mayistheright

timetogrowdaikon.

$70,mrkitly.com.au

Duringits45-yearrun,TheBasement

hostedmanynotableacts,amongthem

Prince,MarthaWainwright,Christine

AnuandDizzyGillespie.Thestoriesare

legion,andJakeSmythhasa fewofhisown.

Theco-ownerofMary’srecalls“sittingon

thestepswithmylittlebrotherSteveand

waitingforthestafftotakepityonusand

letusintoa sold-outRufusWainwright

show”.Thesad-eyeployworked;theymade

it intothegig.“Heplayedsolofornearly

threehours,”Smythrecalls.“I thinkhe

pasheda palofmineat somepoint,too.”

TheSydneyvenueclosedlastyear,

butexpectmorehighlightsnowthat

SmythandhisMary’spartnerKenny

GrahamhaverevivedthejointasMary’s

Underground,duetoopenthismonth.

AstheydidwiththeLansdowneHotel,

they’llbeupdatinga storiedsite.“Wewill

behonouringitsspirit,whilekickingit

squareinthatassandinto2019,”says

Smyth.Thetwo-levelspacewillfeaturea

Mary’s-stylemenuupstairs,withsignature

burgersandanexpandedmenuforvegans

(“wehopetoblowtheirethicallittleminds

• andwaists”),whiledownstairswillbe
  morerefined.“Expectclassic,simple,
  elegantEuro-Americancuisinewithfun
  Aussieflourishesfromourheadchef
  ScottWilliams.”
  AstheformerBaccochefroastsducks
  ona rôtisserie,Mary’sUndergroundwill
  hostgigsnightly.Smyth’smother(anex-
  “doorbitch”at TheBasement)willhelp
  launchthevenue,andhersonwantsto
  continuethelegacyof“hallowedground
  toallyoungdreamerswithmusicintheir
  ears”.Mary’sUnderground,7 MacquariePl,
  Sydney,NSW,marysunderground.com

NewBasementdwellers

JakeSmyth(left)andKenny

GrahamofMary’s. SECRET SAUCE

CameronStephensis heretosave

sandwiches(oratleastimprovethe

qualityofmidnightsnacks)withhis

newlylaunchedCondimental,which

deliverslimited-runboxesofsauces,

seasoningsandpreservesfromtop

producers,thelikesofumamisaltfrom

Sydney’sUmeBurgerandfermented

tomatillosalsapicantefromHobart’s

RoughRice.Expectcondimentsfrom

CornersmithandRiceCultureinfuture

boxes.$65,condimental.com.au

NOTES FROM THE

UNDERGROUND

News

GOURMET TRAVELLER 17

PHOTOGRAPHY LEYLA MURATOVIC (MARY’S UNDERGROUND), LOUIS SAGGUS (CONDIMENTAL) & GETTY IMAGES (LEONARDO DA VINCI).