ON THE PASSWhat kind of Italian food did you grow up with? Pizza Hut and spaghetti
Bolognese seasoned with fish sauce, cooked by my mother. She doesn’t
have a sweet palate like most Filipinos, so I was saved from the sweet
sauce and hot dogs.
You’ve worked at Brae, Mr Wong and you once catered for a film. Had you
been in an Italian kitchen before 10 William St? I had never professionally
cooked Italian food in a restaurant. It creeps into most facets of cooking, so as
a chef you always do feel connected to it through your work. One reason why
I took the job is so I can learn as much as I can about Italian culture and cuisine.
Has visiting the country inspired your approach? Going to Italy last year was
a pivotal point as we cooked most days and rarely went to restaurants. The
produce was alive and spoke of history and terroir. Sicilian lemons, Bronte
pistachio nuts, and Mount Etna wine were all mind-blowing. Everything we
ate was to the season and in its moment.
Besides strozzapreti with pistachio pesto, what else are you cooking at
10 William St? Each day it changes. I am sort of cooking off the cuff and
trying to let every product have its moment. Mizu-nasu eggplant has been
my favourite vegetable this season. It can be eaten raw, tastes of banana
custard and has been perfect for a Caprese salad or caponata.
When you took over the kitchen, were there certain things you couldn’t
remove from the menu? The pretzel, a ragù pasta and the tiramisù all came
with the employment contract.
Which ingredients are you looking forward to using next? Tomato leaves
after the season is over, mushrooms when the rain comes, Jerusalem
artichokes when the flowers die, all the bitter leaves grown by Epicurean
Harvest and brassicas by Boon Luck Farm. (See our review, p49.)
10 William St, Paddington, NSW, (02) 9360 3310, 10williamst.com.auTrisha Greentree
10 WILLIAM ST, SYDNEY
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