Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

SYDNEYTheteambehind

Paperbark,thehighlyregarded

vegandinerinWaterloo,haslooked

toItalyforitsnextventure.Peppe’s,

a newveganpastajointinBondi

byJoePagliaroandGraceWatson,

showsthattastyItaliandoesn’tneed

cheeseoreggs.“Werealisedthat

ItalianfoodinItalyis farmorevegan

thanit’sportrayedoutsidethe

country,”saysWatson.Theshort

menu,byheadchefJoelBennetts

(ThreeBlueDucks),featuresa

coupleofpastasandgnocchi,

perhapswitha cauliflower-porcini

whitesauce,alongwithplentyof

aperitivosnacks.Thedrinkslist

focusesonminimal-intervention

winemakersbothlocal,suchas

JamesErskine,andItalian,chosen

byGiorgioDeMariaofFunWines.

MELBOURNEThenametranslates

as“winebay”inItalian,soit’sapt

thatgrapesarea bigfocusatBaia

DiVino. Themenubyheadchef

DinoMohsin(Riserra,Rockpool

Bar& Grill)includesfriedsardines

withfennelcream,andvealwith

buttermilkcrumbandwitlof.Dishes

arematchedbysommelierVivian

Man,whomightsuggesta Chalmers

vermentinofromVictoriaorErmes

Pavese’sBlancdeMorgexetde

LaSalle,grownontheItalianpart

ofMontBlanc.

FancyFree, thepop-upbya

teamincludingRobLibecans,Matt

StirlingandRyanNoreiksfromBlack

Pearl,hasfounda permanenthome

in theCBD.Theteamhasa reputation

forgoodtimes.AtHobart’sDark

Mofo,forinstance,“redwine”was

offeredin a communion-styleritual;

atanotherevent,green-teaPiña

Coladaswereservedin inflatable

unicorns.Thisspiritlivesonatthe

newbar,albeitin a responsible

manner.The“no/low/full”alcohol

approachtococktailsmeansmostof

themenuis lightonbooze,thelikes

ofR&CMilkPunchwithraspberry

“paint”andJapanesemapleice.

PERTHAtJaneDoughPizza, chef

BenAtkinson(MeatCandy)based

thepork-and-fennelsausagepizza

ononeofhisfavouritesandwiches.

Theresultis a roastporchetta,salsa

verde,fennelmayoandsweetonion

bestseller.TheattachedKingSomm

WineBar& Storewillsuggestthe

rightdropforyourhotsopressaor

artichokepizza.

Above,fromleft:

(clockwisefrom

topleft)BaiaDi

Vino’sseared

duckbreastwith

pumpkin,stuffed

calamari,beetroot

ravioli,snapper

crudo,and

brodettodipesce;

KingSomm

WineBar& Store,

whichhouses

JaneDough

Pizza;(fromleft)

FancyFree’s

RyanNoreiks,

MattStirlingand

RobLibecans.

RESTAURANTNEWS

Howmanyitemscanbemadewitha singlepieceofwire?Plenty,say

KristianandAnnabelleJamieson.TheirBendohomewaresrangeincludes

a single-wireeggcup($7.70),winerack,trivetandmore.bendo.com.au

News

GOURMET TRAVELLER 23

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL HERRMANN-ZOLL (DANIEL EMMA), RYAN NOREIKS (FANCY FREE) & JAKE RODEN (BAIA DI VINO).