Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

Cynar

Made by Campari, this relatively

young (mid-’60s in age) amaro

is made predominantly from

artichoke and considered

both an aperitivo and digestivo.

It is savoury and bittersweet;

perfect as it is after dinner,

but also friendly enough to

play alongside other flavours.

Add a splash to a classic

Manhattan for extra depth and

complexity, or simply serve

it tall with tonic or bitter lemon.

Fernet-Branca

A firm favourite among amaro

enthusiasts and bartenders,

Fernet-Branca packs a hell

of a punch with very little

sweetness. The recipe is

a closely guarded family secret,

though we know it contains

a bucketload of saffron, along

with peppermint, myrrh and

chamomile. Traditionally,

it’s consumed neat at room

temperature after a night

of indulgence, and also

appears in a host of classic

and modern cocktails.

Personally, I love Fernet’s

partner in crime, Branca Menta.

It works wonders on a full

stomach. Try Fernet-Branca or

Branca Menta in the L’appetit

cocktail, from The Flowing

Bowl, published in 1891: two

parts sweet vermouth to one

part Fernet-Branca on the

rocks, with a twist of orange.

Amaro Nonino

Nonino is grappa-based, so

it’s bursting with bright fruit

flavours. Think extra pithy

marmalade tempered by herbal

notes of thyme and menthol.

This one is great on the rocks

with an orange wedge, used

in place of vermouth in a classic

Rob Roy, and to create one

of our house favourites, the

Training Day cocktail.

Amaro Montenegro

Move over Frangelico, this

golden elixir is fast becoming

a hot pick post dinner. This

smooth sipper boasts a secret

recipe (of course), with strong

notes of vanilla and orange

zest. Serve it over ice with a

wedge of orange, or try it stirred

down with your favourite dark

spirit. Just a splash will totally

transform your Old Fashioned.

Cocchi Dopo Teatro

Much more bitter than a classic

vermouth, but smoother and

lighter than your typical amaro,

this is a stunning drop. Due

to its wine base, it won’t last

indefinitely as other amari

will, but, kept in the fridge, it

will easily see out a couple of

months at least. Serve chilled

and pair it with dark chocolate.

Ischia Sapori

Rucolino

I first tried this little wonder

at my uncle’s house in Queens,

New York, back in 2009.

I couldn’t believe that I hadn’t

tried it before. It had just the

right amount of spice and

bitterness to settle the pasta

I’d had for lunch. Rucolino is

made from a closely guarded

secret, like all secret-agent

amari, but we do know that

in addition to rocket, citrus

features in the recipe, which

lightens the flavour but doesn’t

make it as light as Montenegro

or Nonino. It’s a darker style

and best served cold or on

ice without a garnish.

Cappelletti Sfumato

Rabarbaro

Otherwise known as “smoky

rhubarb”, this is a wine-based,

rather than spirit-based, amaro.

Cappelletti uses a Chinese

variety of rhubarb root grown

in Trentino Alto Adige e Veneto

combined with alpine herbs and

berries to make this bartender

favourite. I love a dash of this

added to a Manhattan – the dry

smokiness brings a complexity

that has you thinking through

the whole drink.

Applewood Økar

Handcrafted from botanicals

native to the coastal rainforests

of Australia, this Adelaide Hills

amaro showcases rare riberries,

fresh Davidson’s plum and

strawberry gum leaf. ●

GOURMET TRAVELLER 35

PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW. STYLING AIMEE JONES. MERCHANDISING HARRIET DAVIDSON.

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