shedugthegardeneveryday,learning
aboutseasons,seedsandgrowingcycles.
There’snogardenbehindWilliamStreet,
butGreentreehasmadea pointof
befriendinglocalgrowersandproducers,
andmakingtheirproducethedefining
factorofhermenus.
Takethesnacks.A singlesteamedbaby
zucchinifromSiftProduce,say,dressedin
brown-buttervinaigrette,itsflowerfilled
withjust-setspannercrabmousse,the
zucchinisoftenedtothebite.Orwhite
cornfromBoonLuckFarmnearByron
Bayundera gratingofcuredeggyolk
andlime.Plant-forward,withflourish.
A caponatamadewiththreeorfour
eggplantcharred,cutdowntothestem,
fannedout,andtoppedwitha crumble
ofbreadcrumbs,greenolivesandcapsicum
continuesthetheme,whilestracciatella
fromVannellainMarrickville,spreadwith
anchoviesandblackenedspigarelloleaves- sweetlikebroccoliaftera frost,bitterlike
darkgreenkale– letsgoodproduceshine.
Extraal dentepastais partofthe
briefhere,butthespaghettiallachitarra,
handsomelycoiledwithprawnand
cherrytomatoesandtossedwitha buttery,
prawnysauce,is veryextra.Consistently
nailing the timing is the next step.➤
furtherafield.Butwaitinginthestreet
outfront,jostlingforspacebetweenthe
tinytables,andswipingtheseededpretzel
throughthewhippedbottargadiphas
becomeas mucha necessityas ordering
a glassofsomethingfreshandjuicyfrom
thechalkboard.
10 Williamhasalsobeena drawfor
talentkeentoblurthelinebetweenItalian
andwhateverelsethey’reinto:think
Pepperellpre-Hubert,Burgesspost-
GaragistesorPinbonebetweenpop-ups.
Thechefforthepastfewyearshasbeen
EnricoTomelleri,whokepta littlecloser
toItaly.Butashisfocusshiftedto
developingthenextvenueforowners
MarcoAmbrosinoandbrothersEnrico
andGiovanniParadiso(whoalsoown
FratelliParadiso),thechanceforsomeone
newtojumpinbeckoned.
TrishaGreentreeis thatsomeone.
Shehasa wealthofexperience,buther
mostformativemovewasjoiningDan
Hunter at Brae in Birregurra. There,Twochefsareaddingnewdimensionstoa coupleofthecity’s
mostcelebratedwinebars,writesDAVIDMATTHEWS.
Two of a kind
S
ince2014,as Sydney’slockout
lawssteadilydismantledthecity’s
traditionalnightlife,itssmallbars
havebecomeincreasinglyvital.
Whentwoofthem, 10 WilliamStand
Love,TillyDevine,winebarsboth,opened
inthesummerof 2011 onthebackof
changestothestate’slicensinglaws,they
weresymbolsofa growingmovement:
placesrunbygoodhospitalityfolkwith
aninterestininterestingthingstodrink
andeatinsettingsmoreaboutbuzzand
energythanformalityorpretence.Looking
back,it’shardtoimaginethecitywithout
them.Lookingahead,newtalentsare
deepeningtheirappeal.
At 10 WilliamSt,thefoodhasalways
beena drawas muchas thewine.Forthe
vine-dedicatedthere’sthechancetoget
lostina deeplistofminimal-intervention
winesfromItaly(organicsangiovesefrom
makersPacinainTuscany,forexample)
andbottlesfrompeopledoingexciting,
preservative-free things at home andFromfarleft:
TrishaGreentree;
MichaelWest;soft
chocolatewith
Fernet-Brancaand
pumpkinseedsat
Love, Tilly Devine.Sydney review
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO.
GOURMET TRAVELLER 49