Clockwisefrombelow:eggplant
caponata,pickledzucchiniwith
peppersandhazelnuts,andYarra
Valleycaviarcrostinowithricotta
at 10 WilliamSt;Love,TillyDevine;
flan and vermouth at 10 William St.Theragùofvealandpork,however,
underscoredbypumpkinpurée,reinedin
withradicchioandservedwithproperlyal
dentemaltagliati,hitsthesweetspot.And
there’smorestracciatellaontop.Winner.
Yes,there’sstilltiramisù,butfora clip
ofGreentreeand 10 WilliamStinone
bowl,ordertheflan.Thesetcustard,rich
withoutbeingeggy,nodsat herFilipino
heritage,whileanorangesyrupseasoned
withlimited-runPartidaCreusvermouth
fromCataloniatapsintothebar’sloveof
bothSpritzesandoff-trackdrinks. Bitter,
sweet,andonetosavour.
Overat LoveTilly,
MichaelWestriffsonhis
heritagewithdessert,too.
Atleastif hischildhoodwas
oneinwhichYogofeatured
heavily.Thechocolatey
snackinspiredthesingle
sweetthingonthemenu,
forwhichcustardis poured
overchocolate,lefttoset
soft,thenspoonedover
crunchypepitasseasoned
withsugarandsaltand
splashedwithFernet-Branca.
LTDleansmoretowine
thanfood,andownerMatt
Swiebodahasalwayskepta
listoflow-intervention,local
bottles.He,andbusiness
partnerNathanialHatwell
(who also runs Dear SainteÉloise),mustbethrilledthetrendhas
caughtup.There’sa rangefromorganic
vintnersManoninAdelaideHills,bright
pét-natfromLittleThingsandriesling
fromKoernerbytheglass,plusa whole
sectionoflighterreds.A clutchof
internationalsplayoffthelocals.
It’smorelo-fihere:distressedbrick,
eventinierfurniture,windowsfrontinga
backalley.Westwilloftenbealoneinthe
nookthatpassesfora kitchen,andpicking
a daywhenhe’sthere,ratherthanworking
the floor ashesometimesdoes,showsthe
menuinitsbestlight.
LikeGreentree,he’sbeen
gettingtoknowthelocals.
He,too,usesFeatherand
Boneformeat,Vannellafor
cheese,andnearbygrowers
forvegetables.Butif there’s
a theme,it’sIggy’sbread.
It’stoastedandcrumbled
overfioripastatossedwith
sweetpotatoandburnt
chilli,servedfreshwitholive
oil,slicedthin,saltedand
crispedtogowithtartare.
Toasted,it formsthebase
ofhisheadlinesnack,where
it’sspreadwithbutteranda
pasteofsoyandshiokombu
beforebeingdredgedwith
parmesan.Crunch,umami,
anda chancetodab up drips
with the crust.Details10 WilliamSt
10 WilliamSt,Paddington,
(02) 9360 3310,
10williamst.com.au
Licensed
CardsAEMCV EFT
OpenMon-Thu
5pm-midnight,
Fri-Satnoon-midnight
PricesEntrées$16-$25,
maincourses$29-$34,
desserts$9-$12
VegetarianTwoentrées,
onemaincourse
NoiseBuzzing
WheelchairaccessNo
MinusWaitingtogetin
Plus Getting inDetailsLove,TillyDevine
91 CrownLn,Darlinghurst,
(02) 9326 9297,
lovetillydevine.com
Licensed
CardsAEDCMCV EFT
OpenMon-Sat
5pm-midnight
PricesEntrées$14-$22,
maincourse$24,
dessert$12
VegetarianTwoentrées,
onemaincourse
NoiseSteady
WheelchairaccessNo
MinusTinyfurniture
Plus Big spiritWhyserveplainboiledzucchiniwith
theburratathough?It’sbettera weeklater,
replacedwithpickledgreentomatoes,
slicedthinandflavouredwithcoriander
seedsanddill.It’stheacidthedishneeds,
andmakesforgoodmoppingwithIggy’s.
Westmighthavenickedthetartare
fromthetimeheworkedat ClownBar
inParis,butif hediditsbecausehewants
youtotastethebeef,notthedressing.He
usestopside,a cutwithplentyofflavour,
anddressesit lightlywithsoy,lemonand
roastedhazelnuts,lettingthecrispsseason
it.Goodsenseandgoodsnacking.
Twoyoungchefs.Twoestablished
venues.Spacetogrowandexperiment.
Thesearejobsheldbypeopledestined
forevenbiggerandbetterthings.Catch
them soon. Catch them often.●Sydney review
50 GOURMET TRAVELLER