Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

RagùBolognese

SERVES 6 //PREPTIME 15 MINS// COOK2 HRS

ChefAndreasPapadakisofTipo 00 simmershisragùBolognese

witha spicebag,whichaddshintsofcinnamon,cloves,bayleafand

thyme.Servewithpastaof your choiceandfinelygratedparmesan.

RagùNapoletano

SERVES 6 //PREP 20 MINS(PLUSCURING)//COOK5 HOURS

Pork,prosciuttoandtomatoformsthebaseofthissauce.Servewith

pastaofyourchoiceandfinely grated parmesan.Pictured p68.

125 ml(½cup)oliveoil

500 gmcoarselyminced beef

(mediumfat)

300 gmcoarselyminced pork

(mediumfat)

1 carrot,diced

1 onion,chopped

1 smallcelerystalk,diced

1 tbspfinelychopped

garlic(about3 cloves)

125 gmtomatopaste

250 mldryredwine

2 thymesprigs

1 freshbayleaf

1 smallcinnamon quill

2 cloves

750 ml (3 cups) chicken stock

500 gmeachporkshoulder

andporkbelly,cut into

5cmpieces

40 gmfineseasalt

125 ml(½cup)extra-virgin

oliveoil

500 gmthickporksausages

(100gmeach),cut into

3cmpieces

250 gmprosciuttoends,

cutinto5cmdice

1 largeredonion,quartered

7 garliccloves,crushed

500 ml(2cups)chickenstock

2.5 kg canned tomatoes

1 Sprinkleporkshoulderand

bellywithsaltandrefrigerate

tolightlycure(4hours). Rinse

excesssaltfromporkandpat

drywithpapertowels.

2 Heathalftheoilina large

saucepanovermedium-high

heatandcookpork,sausages

and prosciutto in batches

untilbrowned(4-6minutes),

thenremovefrompan.Add

remainingoilandonionand

fryuntilsoftened(2-3minutes),

thenremoveanddiscardonion

(theonionis justtoflavourthe

oil).Addgarlicandfry,stirring

occasionally,untilfragrant

(1 minute).Deglazepanwith

stock,scrapingbaseofpan,

thenaddtomatoesandreturn

pork,sausagesandprosciutto

topan.Bringtotheboil.

Reduceheattolowandsimmer

uncovereduntilmeatis very

tender(4½-5 hours).Season

totaste,thenremove pork with

a slottedspoon.

3 Whencoolenoughtohandle,

shredporkshouldercoarsely

withtwoforks,discarding

bones,cutporkbellyinto

smallpiecesandreturnall

the meat to the sauce.

withtheirs,rraùindialect.Inthetheatre,theplaywright
EduardoDeFilippo’s 1959 comedy,Sabato,Domenicae
Lunedì(Saturday,SundayandMonday), abouta weekendin
thelifeofthePriorefamily,goesintomuchdetailabout
mammaRosa’sragù.Inreallife,intheearly1960s,Pina
Mauranawastakenbyherfiancétomeethisfamilyover
Sundaylunch.Shewastreatedtowhatshestilldescribes
as “themostspectacularragùI’veevereaten”.Yether

fiancéandhisfourbrothersspentthewholemealfinding
faultwiththefinerpointsoftheirmother’smasterpiece.
Pina’sfiancé,nowherhusband,wasAntonio
Mattozzi,a foodexpertandmemberofa dynastyof
pizzeriaownersandrestaurateurs.Heandhisbrothers
knewwhattheyweretalkingaboutbuttheirattitudewas
at variancewithEduardoDeFilippo’sinhispoem,‘Orraù.
Herethespeakercriticiseshiswife’seffortsasmere“carne
c’ ‘a pummarola”,meatandtomatoes.Forhim,theonly
realragùis theonehismammausedtomake.Which
seems a fittingly Neapolitan way to conclude.●

1 Heata largesaucepanover

medium-highheat,addoiland

mincedmeatsandcook,stirring

occasionally,untilbrowned

(5-8minutes).Reduceheatto

medium,addvegetablesand

garlic,andcookuntilsoftened

(5-6minutes).Addtomatopaste

andstiruntilcolourdeepens

(2-3minutes),thendeglazepan

withwine, scrapingbaseofpan,

untilalmostcompletelyreduced

(5-6minutes).Tie herbsand

spicesin a pieceofmuslinwith

stringtoforma bundle,then

addtopanwithstock,season

totasteandsimmeruncovered

overlowheatuntilsauce

thickens(1-1½hours).Discard

spice bag and season to taste.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 71