KONBINI COOL
WalkthroughanyJapanesecityscapeand
you’llsee7-Eleven,LawsonandFamilyMart
outletsbrighteningstreetcornerswiththeir
neon-litshopfronts.Theconveniencestore
- orkonbini– isn’tjusta grab-and-gospot
forlocals,it’salsoa hugeinspirationto
chefsaroundtheworld.DavidChang
openedPeachMart(pictured)inNewYork’s
HudsonYardsasa tribute;locally,Adelaide
hasMorningsKonbini,andSydney’sDopa
ByDevonofferssandwichesanddesserts
thatriffonthesnacksfoundinTokyo’s24/
shopfronts.Sowhydochefslovekonbini?
“Therearefreshsandwichesdelivered
twicea day;puddingsandpastrieswith
high-gradevanillabeansinthecustard;
thefriedchicken– it’salwaysfreshand
consistent– andthentherearekatsu
sandwichesthatwillputmostJapanese
restaurantsabroadtoshame,”says
DopaByDevonchefZacharayTan.“It’s
conveniencefoodturnedrightup,”says
MontyKoludrovic,whoaddeda konbini-
styleeggsandwichcalledtheTokyo
7/11toTheDolphin’smenuwhenhe
was executive chef at the Sydney pub.
“TheconveniencestoresinJapanareamazinginthesamewaythevending
machinesareamazing,”saysKoludrovic.“Wehaveconveniencestores,wehave
vendingmachines– butnotlikethis.”Konbinisandwichesareperfect-looking
andfluffy,thestoreshavemachinesthatmakepotnoodles,andthere’s“agreat
arrayofpacketsnacks,enoughtomakeWonkawonder”.TheKitKatflavours
alone(yuzu,matcha,cherry-blossomsake)areproofofthis.It’sa sensibility
thatAdelaide’sMorningsKonbinitapsinto.Itsstorefrontlookslikea Tokyo
kioskanditsmenuincludesJapanese-stylesandwichesandversionsofonigiri
- theseaweed-wrappedriceballsfoundon7-Elevenshelves.InJapan,onigiri
areingeniouslypackagedsothatthenorisheetsstaycrispwhenyouopen
them,despitethehourstheyspendinfridges.
“It’ssomethingthatsparksa foodlover’screativityandimagination– [we’re]
tryingtore-enacttheirconvenienceexperiencesbackintheirhomecountry,”
saysownerJasonBarber.Buthealsonailsthekeyreasonthese stores have
worldwide appeal: they simply offer “a very fun way to eat”.
20 GOURMET TRAVELLER
WORDS
YVONNE
C
LAM
(BACK
TO
SCHOOL).
PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW BEZEK (PEACH MART).