W
hen Chaco Bar first opened as a hole-
in-the-wall yakitori spot in Sydney’s
Darlinghurst in 2014, owner Keita
Abe couldn’t have imagined its success
and evolution. Fast-forward to 2020,
and the original Darlinghurst site is
now Chaco Ramen, where the Japanese noodle soup takes
centrestage. Then there is the new Chaco Bar, reimagined in a
moody, elongated site in the neighbouring suburb of Potts Point,
where diners can take a seat at the long communal timber tables,
or head up the back to be close to the fiery yakitori action. “We
want the feel of an authentic Japanese restaurant, but we always
want to push the boundaries,” says general manager Kei Tokiwa.
“One foot in the traditional world, one foot pushing further.”
Both restaurants take inspiration from yatai, a traditional,
informal laneway izakaya or food cart, originating in Abe’s
hometown of Fukuoka, located a two-hour flight south-west
of Tokyo. These small, street stall-style restaurants specialise
in casual yet refined ramen and yakitori, and their influence
is evident in Chaco’s intimate and friendly spirit.
There’s also a high level of respect for ingredients. “We use
everything, from head to toe,” says Abe. Take the chickens, for
example. There are 16-week-old mature chickens, which head
chef Dingqi Xin sources from his local butcher in Wolli Creek.
The birds are deboned by hand, the thigh meat is used for
yakitori, breast meat for jerky, the remaining carcass for stock,
from which the fat is skimmed for the tamago kake gohan
rice dish, while the feet are used in the ramen broth.
It’s these considered touches that make Chaco Bar and
Chaco Ramen so unique. “It’s ambitious but it’s what we want
to do – we really want to explore yakitori,” says Tokiwa. And
that they have, whether it’s challenging diners to flame-licked
chicken livers or introducing them to cartilage-studded tsukune
meatballs. “We have an idea and then we will constantly
test, taste and try again to find that evolution,” says Tokiwa.
Even though Chaco first opened its doors six years ago, Abe
sees this as the beginning. “We want to grow both restaurants
while maintaining a really high quality,” says Abe. “I feel great that
we started from nothing. But we are still just at the starting line.”
Chaco Bar, 186-188 Victoria St, Potts Point, NSW,
(02) 8593 4567, chacobar.com.auChaco Bar and Chaco Ramen are adapting to the rapid
changes to the hospitality industry in response to
Covid-19. As we go to press, Chaco Bar and Ramen are
doing takeaway and self-cook ramen and gyoza packs.
To stay up-to-date, follow @chaco_bar on Instagram.80 GOURMET TRAVELLER