Australian Gourmet Traveller - (06)June 2019 (1)

Daily bread

p 52

HarrietDavidson,writer& editorial

coordinator;Anembo,NSW

Ninetyminutes’drivefromCanberrais

BrightsideProduce,aninspiringorganic

marketgardensupplyingthecapital’s

restaurantsandresidentswithseasonal

[email protected]

Where we’ve been

(“it’sa challengetokeepthemhappy,”

saysEsmeAtkinsonofherTasmanian

wasabiplants).Fromhisnewlyfinished

projectPipit,chefandhandyman

BenDevlinshowsushowhebuilt

a restaurantfromscratch.

Andwhenthetechniqueis

perfected,it’stimetolookafter

yourdiners.“Cookingis a labour

ofnurturinglove,ofneighbourly

care,”writesEnriqueOlverainhis

odetoMexicanhome-cooking.

We couldn’t agree more.

[email protected] // FOLLOW@GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINEGOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU

I

don’tbelievefora momentthat

cynicaloldsaying:thosewhocan’t

do,teach.Particularlyafterediting

ourspecialmasterclassissuethis

month,inwhichwe’vecollectedthe

recipes,extractedthemagicshortcuts

anddistilledthewisdomofsomeofthe

finestkitchenhandsinthebusiness.

Inourexperience,thebestartisans

veryoftenmakethebestteachers.

Considerthemasteryinvolvedinthis

line-up:perfectpie-makingbytheteam

at BourkeStreetBakery,dhaltempering

byLankanFillingStation’sOTama

Carey,crackingporkcracklingbyMike

McEnearney,andbreadmakingby

sourdoughmaestroIgorIvanovic.

Ourmasterclassesextendway

beyondthekitchen.MaxAllensuggests

howtostocka cellar(“alwaysbuywines

fromyourchildren’sbirthyear,”he

advises,“evenif theydon’tappreciate

themwhentheyturn21,youwill.”)

A bunchofstellarAustralianfood

producersexplainhowtheykeeptheir

crops and flocks in peak condition

LeeTranLam,newseditor;

Tokyo,Japan

ThesecolourfulsakebarrelsattheMeiji

JinguShrinesitoppositea wallofwines

fromBurgundy,France– theemperor

liked his wine, too.@leetranlam

LauraJacobs,designer;

Wanaka,NewZealand

Sixteenkilometresand 1500 metresof

elevationlater,I wasfeelingnotonly

ontopoftheworldbutsureI’dearnt

thebottleofrieslingweboughtat

Amisfieldwinerythedaybefore.

@laurajanejacobs

14 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW (PORTRAIT) & WILL HORNER (IGGY’S).

Editor’s letter