Australian Gourmet Traveller - (06)June 2019 (1)

BOTTLEROCKET

VirginiaSelleckandKirstenDickiestarted

Magnum+ Queens(above)asanonline

bottleshopthat,a yearlater,became

a stylishshopfront.Nowtheirbottleshop

is a winebar,too.Selleck’sexpertise

asa sommelieris reflectedinthefinely

tunedcollectionofaround 700 labelsthat

embraceclassicandminimalintervention

styles,allavailabletodrinkinstore.

There’sa sharplistofbeerandcider,

andsnacksalongthelinesofquality

Spanishanchoviesandmollycoddled

Comté.274-278CoventrySt,South

Melbourne,(03)9696 3185.

NIGHTANGEL

ThelatestventurefromConChristopoulos

is anotherstepforwardforMelbourne’s

healthylate-nightculture.Angel

MusicBaris a sharplydesignedhybrid

• partbar,partdiner,partnightclub.
  Correctcocktailsarriverapidly,a snack
  menudeliversthelikesofprawn
  cocktails,andanextraordinaryvariety
  oftunesarecourtesyofDJsandan
  impeccablesoundsystem.There’sa
  courtyardanda danceroomupstairs,too.
  12 BourkeSt,Melbourne, (03) 9654 6249.

LOCALHERO

NeighbourhoodjointParkStreetPasta

& WinereinforceswhyItalianfoodis a

Melbournestrength.Thisflatteringlylit,

timber-flooredlocalwithcosybarareaand

openfireplacesservespipis,cuttlefishand

’ndujatossedthroughsquid-inktagliolini,

beefragùwithpappardelleandplatesof

stuffedpastasuchasagnolottifilledwith

vealandrabbit.TheItalianwinelistis also

interestingandwell-priced. 268 Park St,

South Melbourne. (03) 9042 8871.

AND ALSO...

GOURMET TRAVELLER 39

Melbourne review

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (TANSY’S) & ANDREW VUKOSAV (MAGNUM + QUEENS).

tiledfloors,freshflowers

oneverytable,walls

whitewashedorpatterned

withEuropeantilesand

windowslookingoutonto

a gardencompletethe

setting.Ofcoursethere’s

a goat’scheesetart.

But,again,thistart

knowsitsstuff:lotsof

cheese,herbsfromthe

gardenmixedwithspinach

orkale,pinpointaccuracy

intheseasoning.Thepastry

is thekindofshort,buttery,

flakyidealthatencourages

meremortalstorecommit

tothequestofmastering

pastry,becausethehouse-

madeversiontastessogood.

Goodhasalwaysbeen

a mastersaucier,sodon’t

eatherewithouttaking

advantage.Theredwine

sauceaccompanyinga filletofbeefis

madefromvealandbeefstock,redwine

anda splashortwoofportorMadeira.

Itsdepthofflavourmakesyoucloseyour

eyeswhenit hitsyourmouth.Thebeef

itselfis preciselycooked,as arethe

accompanyingpotatoesandbabyonions.

It’sexpertlytailoredcomfortfood.

JohnEvans’winelistis comforting

too,startingwiththefactthepricestop

outat$100.It’sa meanderingcollection

with nothing too oddball in the mix.

There’sItaliangrilloand

Heathcoteshiraz,xinomavro

fromGreeceandpinot

noirfromCoalRiverin

Tasmania,Austriangrüner

veltlinerandNewZealand

pinotgris,witha goodnumber

availablebytheglass.

Comedessert,sorbets

mightbeflavouredwith

chocolate,berries,Piña

Colada,cinnamon,asparagusorginger.

Orderanyofthem– thetexturealoneis

sublime– butif theginger’son,getit on

thesidewithoneoftheotherdishes,

perhapsa sliceoffrangipanetarttopped

withplumsandpeaches.

Therearenoboundariesbeing

pushedhere.It’sanagenda-freespace,

asidefromenablingtalent,precisionand

simplicitytodojusticetogreatingredients.

Tansy’sis back. Time to set the GPS

for Kyneton.●

Details

Tansy’s

91 PiperSt,Kyneton

(03) 54221392

Licensed

CardsMCV EFT

OpenThu-Sunnoon-3pm,

Thu-Sat6pm-9pm

PricesEntrées$16-$30,

maincourses$20-$45,

desserts$5-$20

VegetarianOneentrée,

onemaincourse

NoiseNegligible

WheelchairaccessNo

MinusThetwo-person

showcanslow

thingsdown

PlusTansyGoodis

in the house

Herbandlemonsousedsardines.

Aboveright:thediningroomat

Tansy’s.Right:frangipanetart

with vanilla bean ice-cream.