GOURMET TRAVELLER 75
WORDS & RECIPE ADAM JAMES. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING LYNSEY FRYERS.
Masterclass
STEP BYSTEP
MAKESASMUCHASYOULIKE
// PREP TIME 20 MINS (PLUS FERMENTING)
NoteIf your
nukadokois
becomingtooactive
andyou’rehaving
troublekeepingup,
putit in thefridge
toslowdownthe
fermentation.
Likewise,if you’re
unabletofeedit for
a fewdays,putit
in thefridge,then
giveit a bigfeed
ofvegetableswhen
you’rereadytoramp
up production again.
1
In2 batches,dry-roast1kgrice
branina wokovermedium
heatuntilroastedandfragrant
(3-5minutes).Cool.
2
Bring1 litrewatertotheboil
ina largesaucepan,thenadd
150gmsalt.Removefromheat,and
stiruntilsaltdissolvesandmixture
coolstoroomtemperature.
3
Graduallyaddcooledricebran,
stirringwell.Themixtureshould
havetheconsistencyofwetsand
(youmayneedtoaddmorewater).
4
If youwanttoflavourthebran
bed,addaromatics:driedchillies,
dried,groundseaweedandginger,
say,orsake,beerorkombutsuyu.
5
Tostartfermentation,add
vegetablescrapsora coupleof
carrotstotherice-branmixture.Bury
them well and smooth the surface.
Storein a darkplacewithanambient
temperaturebetween20°Cand
25°C,removingscrapsandadding
freshonesdaily.Anyscrapswilldo,
justbesurenottouse any that are
dirtyorgoingbad.
6
Repeatthethrowawaypickling
process,knownassutezuke,
untilnukadokodevelopsa slightly
sour,fermentedodourandstarts
toproducelacticacid(10days
to2 weeksinwarmerweather;
3-4weeksinwinter).
7
Stirthenukadokoregularly(at
leastoncea day),toredistribute
theaerobicandanaerobicenzymes
andencouragea healthy,low-pH
(slightlysour)nukadoko.If it getstoo
wet(vegetableswillreleasewater),
mixinsomefreshricebranwith
about 13 percentof the fresh bran
weightinsalt.
8
Oncenukadokois smelling
andtastinggood(it shouldsmell
yeastybutnotoffensiveandtaste
pleasant,if a littlesalty– a bitlike
a sourdough),it’sreadyforitsfirst
batch of pickles. I leave a radish
inovernightasa veryquicktestto
monitortheactivityofthebed.The
saltdrawsoutmoisture,soit’llbe
slightlywrinkly,butstillhaveintegrity.
It shouldbecrunchy,sour,saltyand
earthy.Picklingtimeis downto
personalpreference.A radishcan
fermentin under 24 hours,a turnip
about2 days,a beetroot4-5days
(beetrootleakscolour,whichis fine,
thoughaftera whileit maystainother
pickles).Continuetoaddnewroasted
bran,saltandwaterwhilevegetables
arepicklingtokeepthemixture
a wetsandconsistency.Onceyou’re
satisfiedwiththeflavourandtexture,
removepickles,rinsethemandstore
in anairtightcontainerin the fridge.
They’llkeepformonths.
9
Picklesarebestservedsliced
thinly.Trythemaspartofa
Kyoto-stylebreakfastona bowlof
rice,orasa toppingforcongee.
Otherwise,addthemtostir-fries,
oranythingandeverythingelse.
Be warned, they’re addictive.➤
Crunchy, saltyandsavoury,nukazuke are
perfect aspartofa Kyoto-stylebreakfaston
a bowl of rice, or as a topping for congee.