P
alisaAndersonexpertlynavigatesher
waythroughrowsofsun-ripenedfruit
andvegetables,cherrytomatoestothe
leftandappleeggplantstotheright,
beforestoppingat a thrivingplant
toweringwithglossygreenleaves.
“Here!”shesays.“Thesearegalangalflowers.”She
delicatelypicksa bunchfromtheplant,handsone
tomeandplacestherestina wovenbasket.I eatthe
smallwhiteflower;it’sfragrantandspicy.“Thais
didn’thavechilliuntilabout 400 yearsago,sothey
usedthesearomatsasspice.”
Galangalis anessentialingredientinThaicuisine
andis oneofmorethan 100 varietiesofplantsgrown
at PalisaFarm– a workingfarmintheHuaHindistrict
ofThailand,a three-hourdrivesouthofBangkok.
It’sownedandrunbyAnderson’smum,chefand
pioneeringrestaurateurAmyChantaofSydney’s
ChatThaiandBoonCafé.
Overthepastfouryears,Chantahastransformed
the24-hectarepropertyintoa ThaiproduceMecca
inanentirelyorganicway.Plumpmangoes,sugar
bananas,jackfruitandgreenpapayaflourishalongside
morepeculiarplantssuchastoddypalm,nonifruit
andpakwan,alsoknownassweetleafbush.I liken
itsflavourtoasparagus.
Aswecontinueouragriculturaltour,Anderson
explainsthecomplexitiesofThaicookerytome,plus
thefourchefsshehasinvitedtothefarmona kind
ofThaiculinaryodyssey.
“Thaifoodhasmanyintricatelayers,”shesays.
“ToformthebaseofThaiflavoursyouneedat least
20 differentherbsandspices– fresharomaticssuch
aslemongrass,galangal,garlic,shallots,chilliand
coriander,plusa multitudeofsoft,fragrantherbs
andmakrutlimeleaves.”
It’sthesecomplexitiesandflavournuancesthat
makeThaicuisinesopopular,andsodifficulttomaster.
Wewanderpastthechickencoop,aroundtheriver
andunderthepassionfruitvinesbeforeretreatingto
thefarm’skitchenwherelunchis laidonthetable.
Myolfactorysensesswitchownimmediatelyasan
aromatic,spice-fuelledwavefillstheair.
“ThismyfavouritetypeofThaifood– it’sgenerous
home-stylecookingandusessomanydifferenttypesof
aromats,”saysAnderson.“Itis full-onflavourwithout
beingfullofMSG.Aromatcookingis differentto
MSGcooking.It feelsdifferentwhenyoueatit;it hits
yourbraindifferently;it hitsyousomewheredeeper.”
Crisp,friedmushroomswitha sweetandspicy
dippingsauce,catfishstir-friedwithgreenpeppercorns
andchilli,andgaengkeelek,a porkandbitter-leaf
curryarejusta fewofthedishesbeingpassedaround.
Almosteverythinghasbeengrownandharvested
straight from the surrounding land.➤“Thaifoodhasmanyintricate
layers. ToformthebaseofThai
flavours,you needatleast 20
different herbs and spices.”54 GOURMET TRAVELLER