I
havea confessiontomake:I havethisloveoffried
chickenthatbordersonobsession.
Thatmomentwhena perfectlyfriedjointofbird
hasthatcrunchandis seasonedjustright,theherbs
andspicessoperfectlybalanced.It leavesmespellbound.
It transportsme– a momentofhappinessinan
otherwisemaddeningpursuitofperfectingmycraft.
Thatfeelingyougetwhenyoucooka piecejustso,spending
thetimepreparingeverythingjustperfect,thespicestriedand
tested,eachgrammeasuredandfreshlyground,thefloursifted
andsiftedagain,makingit aslightaspossiblebeforefolding
throughthespices,neverrushing.
Thenthere’sthatsound,thatmomentyoudropa piece
ofchickenreadytofryintoa bubblingandsizzlingskillet.
Thatrhythmicsoundofthespoonagainstthesideofthe
skilletasyoubastethechickenis musictoyourears,carefully
countingeachtimethehotlardis spoonedovereachpiece–
alwaysbasting,alwayswatchinguntilthejointsturnperfectly
golden,forminganarmouraroundeachpieceandallowing
themtogentlysteamunderneaththegoldencrust.
I won’tboreyouwiththedetailsofwhatexactlythatcan
dotoa manobsessedwithflour,spice,oil,lardandchicken.
Just know it’s a thing of beauty that can’t be rushed.
3 Transferspicedflourmix
toa sieveanddustbothsides
ofthechickenskinstocoat.
Usingyourhands,pressthe
flourintotheskin.Placeanother
trayontopoftheskins,thenan
evenweightontopofthetray
(afewtinsofbeanswilldo).
Refrigerateskinsovernight.
Reserveremainingflour.
4 Removeskinsfromfridge
andallowtocometoroom
temperature(20minutes).
5 Half-filla heavy-based
saucepanordeep-fryerwith
oilorlardandheatto180ºC.
Lightlydustskinswithreserved
flour,thencarefullylowerinto
thehotfatandfryuntilgolden
andcrisp(4minutes),turning
halfwaythrough.Becareful
ashotfatmayspit.
6 Removeskinsfromfat,drain
onabsorbentpaperandseason
withseasalt.Toserve,scatter
overthymeleavesanddrizzle
with honey and hot sauce.
250 gm(¾cup)rocksalt
400 gmchickenskins
Vegetableoilorlard,
forfrying
½ bunchoflemonthyme,
leavespicked
Honeyandhot sauce,
toserve
SPICEDFLOURMIX
400 gm(22/3cups)plainflour
100 gmtablesalt
1/4 cupcorianderseeds,
finelyground
2½ tbspwholecloves,
finelyground
2 tbspdriedsage
2 tbspblackpeppercorns,
finely ground
1 Combinerocksaltand21/2
litresofwarmwaterina large
bowlorsaucepanandstirto
dissolve.Lowerchickenskins
intosaltedwaterandsetaside
tobrine(40minutes).Drain
skinsthenlayflatona tray.
2 Forthespicedflourmix,
combine ingredients in a bowl.
Friedchicken skin
SERVES 4
Chickenskinisn’teasytocomeacrossbutit’sdefinitelyworth
the effort to find. Ask your butcher to source some for you.
92 GOURMET TRAVELLER