Australian Gourmet Traveller - (07)July 2019 (1)

GOURMET TRAVELLER 141

asparagusjuiceandabsinthe.Oneofthecity’s most

intriguingrestaurants.

WhyA glimpseofTokyo’snext-genchefs.

AskforA seatat thebar.

WhenWeekendsnoon-3pmandfrom7pm

onoccasionaldays;bookinadvance.

Where4-10-8 Meguro, Meguro-ku.

PATH

BreakfastinTokyohasalwaysbeentough.Thecity

is slowtowake,andmanyshopsaren’topenuntil

10 or11am.Amongtheearlyrisersis WorldBreakfast

Allday(3-1-23Jingumae,Shibuya-ku),openfrom

7.30amforall-daybreakfastsincludinga fullEnglish

andmonthlyrotatingdishesfromaroundtheworld.

Anothergreatmorningvenueis Path,a cafébyday

andrestaurantbynight.It hasa casualyetsophisticated

neighbourhoodvibe,withanopenkitchenand

minimalistdesign.ChefTaichiHaraandpastrychef

YuichiGotoworkedat Cuisine[s]MichelTroisgros

inShinjuku,andtheprecisiontheylearntthereis

apparent.Inthemorningsthere’sexcellentpour-over

coffeeanddishessuchasquichewithgingkonuts,

bakedDutchpancakeswithprosciuttoandburrata,

andcroissants.IntheeveningPathoffersoneofthe

city’sbestbargainsetmenus:sevencourses of refined,

creativecookingforlessthan$80.

WhyAllbasescoveredallday.

AskforDutchpancakes.

WhenTues-Sat8am-2pm,6pm-11pm;occasionally

openSun.

Where 1-44-2 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku.➤

requestona pieceofpaperandhandit tothewaiter,
who’llpassit totheDJ.If theyhaveit they’llplayit,
thoughperhapsnotimmediately.It’sa perfectbusiness
modelthatkeepsyouthere,drinking,waitingforyour
song.Thenas soonas it’splayedyouwanttorequest

another,andsoit goesuntilyourealiseyou’vebeen
thereallnightandhaveprobablydrunk a bit too much.
WhyA relaxedendtothenight.
AskforYourfavouritetrack.
WhenDaily5pm-3am.
Where1-24-7 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku.

KABI

Kabimakesa pointofsayingit’snota Japanese
restaurant,thoughthere’sa focusonJapanese
ingredients.TheinfluencesaremodernNordicand

funky– “kabi”meansmouldinJapanese,andthere’s
anelementoffermentationinmostdishes:miso,
natto,blackgarlic,fermentedmeatsandvegetables.
Thedinnermenuis set,thewinesnatural,thesake
eclecticandtheplatingbeautiful.Themenuby
a young,earnestteam– ShoheiYasuda,Kentaro
EnomotoandKirikoNakamura– showsa greatdeal
ofcreativitybutalsorestraintwhenneeded.Tempura
sansai(mountainvegetables)is servedsimply,with
seasonedsalt,forexample;a clearsoupis enhanced

withanoilflavouredbybinchotancharcoal;rawfirefly
squidis pairedwithfermentedvenisonpasteand
moresansai.Thepicklesarestunning,andthedesserts
bypastrychefNakamuraarea highlight.Fukinoto,
a vegetablealsoknownasbutterburwitha resinous
flavour, makes an appearance in ice-cream with