fromstintsat EmblaandRamblr,wasn’t
justa smartmove,it wasevolutionary
forherrestaurant.Particularlybecause
hisfoodis emphaticallywine-friendly,
somethingthatplaystoEtta’sstrengths
ina waythat’sneverbeenthisapparent.
Greenis a passionateandinteresting
winecommunicator,oneofthebestin
town.Herlistis a constantlychanging
collectionofmostlysmallerwine
producersmakingwinesthatexpresstheir
varietalcharacteristicsclearlyandwithout
toomuchintervention.There’snothing
outrageouslyfunkyinthemixbuta lot
ofgemsgetjammedintoseveralpages,
includinganexcellentbrioche-ysparkling
winefromtheYarraValley,madeforEtta
byDominicValentine,alongsideFrench
Beaujolais,Austriangrünerveltliner
andMorningtonPeninsulapinotnoir.
Combinedwiththesharpdesign
oftheshopfrontbararea– curvedmarble
counter,kindlylightingandintimate
proportions– thedrinkslistheremakes
Ettaoneofthebestplacesonthestrip
fora drink-and-snackpit-stop.
Therestofthefoodis equallyworthy
ofattention.Slicesofrawkingfish,simply
flavouredwithlemonandsalt,areserved
ina poolofimmenselyflavouredmussel
broththatpacksa beautiful,forceful
umami punch. The dish is finishedGoodqualitiesfora snackinany
location.Butit’sthefermenting,curing
andsmokingthatunderlinechefCharley
Snadden-Wilson’sunderstandingofthe
specificneighbourhooddemographic.
EastBrunswickis a villagethatattracts
a food-savvyclienteleaufaitwithtrends,
andEttaknowshowtogivethe
peoplewhattheywant.
OwnerHannahGreen,who
workedfrontofhouseat Attica
beforeopeningEttatwoyearsago,
livesintheneighbourhood,so
shealreadyhasa prettythorough
ideaofwhatworks.Butrecruiting
Snadden-Wilsontoleadthe
kitchen, a recent hire who arrivesAnewchefisturningEastBrunswickbistroEtta
into apackagedeal,writesMICHAELHARDEN.
True local
I
f thesnacksareanythingtogoby,
Ettahasa firmgripontheconcepts
behinda neighbourhoodlocal.Little
cubesofpommesAnnamadewith
Dutchcreampotatoesarefriedtocrisp
at theedgesandservedwitha fermented
black-garliccaramelanda flurry
offinelygratedparmesan.An
oblongofEtta’shouse-made
sourdoughthat’sbeensoakedin
fermentedtomatojuiceis fried,
thencrownedwithgorgeous
flakesofcuredhapukusmoked
withapplewood.
“Friedandsalty”is in
play,asis “goodwithdrinks”,
and they leave you wanting more.Clockwise
fromtop:
Etta’sbar;
ownerHannah
Green;chef
Charley
Snadden-
Wilson;
kingfish
withsorrel
and mussel.40 GOURMET TRAVELLER