SMALLTOWN
4/41WasonSt,Milton
Neighbourlyis theoperativetermat
thenewsouth-coastvenuefromthe
StIsidoreteam.Duetoopenasthe
firstspringshootsappear,SmallTown,
a 20-seaterjustoffMilton’smain
drag,seestheteamrefocusingon
thesimplethings.“Weneverintended
forStIsidoretobea special-occasion
place,”saysco-ownerJoThomas.
“Herewe’llbedistillingthedining
experiencetogoodwineandsimple,
deliciousfood.Morefun.More
concise.”Inside,thespaceis bright
andwarm,withmarbleandtimber
accents,andfoodis strippedback
andcoastal.Expectmudcrabwith
rice,curryleavesandfriedgarlic,
andsnackssuchasseaurchinroe
onnettlecrackers.SashaSiljanovic’s
winelist,meanwhile,rampsupthe
by-the-glassoptionswithanemphasis
onthirst-quenchersfromsmall
producers,plusa fewclassics.
Whattoorder:A vindesoif-style
cinsaultfromSouthAfricanmaker
Testalonga.Andtherearealways
longnecks of Melbourne Bitter.SUPERNATURAL
9 BayLn,ByronBay,(02) 6680 9606,supernaturalcellars.com.au
ScrawledonthewallofByron’sfirstnaturalwinebarare
threerules:eatwithyourhands,drinkwithyourmouth,
and(inthetraditionofSpain’sgreattapasbars)throwyour
napkinonthefloor.OpenedbyShelterco-ownerAndy
LoveandwinemakerPeterWindrim,it’sa placein step
withthenew,fancifiedByron,butit’sstilla riot:customers
spillintothefrontalley,staffshaketothesoundtrack,and
there’splentyofdrinkingwithyourmouthhappening,with
a listthatincludespetitmansengfromJilly,rieslingfrom
MacForbes,andbottlesfromHungaryandGeorgia.
Whattoorder:Letthemguideyou,butthrowin a gilda
andthecrisp whiting with chimichurri for good measure.PHEW
137 OxfordSt,Darlinghurst
Havingtakenovertherestaurantbelowtheircultcraft-beer
room,theBitterPhewteamhavebeenslowlyputtingthings
in placefora winebartocomplementtheirupstairsoffer.
It’sbeenquietlyopen,andthependantlightsandbrushed
brickwallssurearepretty,butasNicholasLouis(formerly
ofTheDolphinWineRoom)putsthefinishingtoucheson
a winelistheavyonambersfromItalyandjuicyFrenchand
Australianreds,expectthingstogetevenbetter.Snacks
arelow-intervention,too– thinkgoodburrataandduck
ham.OryoucouldalwaysorderMrCracklesin.
Whattoorder:NicohasformfromTheDolphin
and Cumulus Up. Engage him, and drink happy.Above,fromleft:
Supernatural
ownersPeter
Windrim(left)
andAndyLove;
2018 Wildman
WineAstro
BunnyPét-Nat
atSupernatural.
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PAGESWine
bottles(left)
andthebar
at Mosconi.NSW
60 GOURMET TRAVELLER