Above:Bar
Clementine.
Right:Paloma
BarandPantry
generalmanager
LukeFleming
(fromleft),chef
LouisHalstead
andfront-of-
house2IC
Vanessa Rech.BARCLEMENTINE
52 HarrisSt,Pyrmont,(02) 8591 3660,barclementine.com
ThenewlocaldarlingofPyrmont,wherewineguyEnrique
MendozaandpartnerMonica-PaulaZottirunthefloorwith
styleandgracetomatcha roomaccentedwitha sweeping
marblebarandlushbanquettes.Mendoza’slistfollows
hiswhims,butwhatwhims:hepoursthelikesofsupple
LaurentSavoyegamayandroséfromGraniteBeltguns
LaPetiteMortfroma clippedby-the-glassoffer,andsells
fineGeorgianwinebythebottle.There’scheeseand
charcuterie,snacks,anda fewlargerplates,butgofor
the$45tastingmenu($45!)thatstartswitha spinon
devilledeggsandendsstrongwithmilkparfaitwithfeijoa.
Whattoorder:Thetastingmenu,clearly.Butif you’re
intheneighbourhoodona Saturdaymorningmakeit
a Mimosa and an oozy Croque Monsieur for brunch.PALOMABARANDPANTRY
20 PeelSt,Adelaide,palomabarandpantry.com.au
BighoteloperatorPalmerHospitalityGroup,whoalso
runupmarketrooftopbar2KW,havemovedintoPeel
Streetwitha homelybarembracinga casualsouthern
Mediterraneanair(ratherthanMexico,asthename
suggests).A smallbutcarefullychosenwinelist
featuresmostlySouthAustraliansfocusedontextural
Mediterraneanvarieties,witha smatteringofPortuguese
whites,SpanishtempranilloandProvençalrosé.
Elsewhere,drinkinterestsroam– lotsofcocktails(with
a fondnessfortequila),severalsherries,a largerangeof
beers.A modestpantryis stockedwithqualitycharcuterie,
rillettes,tinnedseafood,cheeseandmore,withcustomers
encouragedtomixandmatchastheyplease.
Whattoorder:Somethinglightanddelicious– 2018SC
PannellBassoGarnacha,perhaps– withhot-smoked
ocean trout and mustard mayonnaise.➤SA
LEIGHSTREETWINEROOM
9 LeighSt,Adelaide
SydneychefNathanSasi(Mercado)haslaiddownroots
inAdelaide,transforminga formerdry-cleaningshop
intoa barstockedwithlow-interventionwines.Morethan
400 ofthem,tobeexact,rangingfrominternationalssuch
asMaisonPierreOvernoytonaturalbeautiesfromthe
AdelaideHills.There’sa stronglocalangle:thefood,which
includesthelikesofpumpkinandsheep’scurdagnolotti
andRoman-stylebraisedtripewithchickpeas,fliestheflag
forSouthAustralianproduce,whiletablewareis sourced
fromJamFactory.It allbacksupa designbyStudio-Gram
that,withitslongarchedceiling,echoesBarcelona.
Whattoorder:Trysomethingspecial– suchasJacques
Puffeney’s“farewellvintage” 2014 Arbois– and stay
for dessert of Pedro Ximénez canéles.MALLOZZI
279 RundleSt,Adelaide,mallozzi.com.au
Orana’schef-ownerJockZonfrillomaybeinvolvedin this
narrowRundleStreetbar,butthisis notasting-menuaffair.
Mallozziis aboutthedrinks,bitter-edgedcocktailsand
savourywines,accompaniedbya smartarrayofItalian-
accentedspuntini.Onthewinelist,interestingItalians,
includingSiciliansyrahfromFuranoandFrancescoCirelli’s
organictrebbiano,sitbesidea fewlocalsembracingItalian
style,suchasKoerner’ssangioveseblend.Plusthere’sa
listofamaro,grappa,ItalianbeersinbottleandMoretti
andPeronionthepour.Complementdrinkswithplates
ofsalami,formaggi,snacksincludingvitellotonnatoand
eggplantparmigianaarancinianda fewsmallpastadishes.
Whattoorder:A Negroni, paired with fried mozzarella
PHOTOGRAPHY MIKE FREY (SUPERNATURAL PORTRAIT) & SARAH PARKER (PALOMA BAR AND PANTRY). and anchovy.
GOURMET TRAVELLER 61