Australian Gourmet Traveller - (07)July 2019 (1)

WinesofWhile.

Left:Madalena’s.

Above: Lucinda.

LUCINDA

123 CollinsSt,Hobart

Thosefamiliarwiththepredilectionsof

HobartrestaurantDierMakrwon’tbe

shockedbyitssiblingwinebarLucinda’s

loveofnaturalwine.It’sa snappylist

gatheringtogetherminimal-interventionist

stufffromtheOldandNewWorldsand

teamingit witha superblistof“comestibles”

thatmightincludebraisedryeservedwith

spinachanda soft-boiledegg,turnipswith

noricreamorlambribswithblacksesame.

Thefit-outis beautiful– cleanandserene

• andtheservicethatparticularlyattractive
  styleknownasHobartFriendly.
  Whattoorder:Lucindaprovidesa safespace
  foryoutostepoutofyour wine comfort zone


• ask for direction.

MADALENA’S

406 SouthTce,SouthFremantle,madalenasbar.com.au

ModelledonthebotecosofSouthAmerica,thisSouth

Fremantlenewcomeris rightathomein itsbohobeachside

suburb.Communityis ingrainedin Madalena’sDNA,from

itswinelist– a celebrationofnew-waveWAproducers,

writteninconjunctionwithFreolocalbottleshopWise

Child– toa diversecrowdtakingin everyonefromstudents

tofamilies.Toeat,expectdeftlyhandledseafood from

AndrewMcConnellalumnusAdamRees.

Whattoorder:Weekendfishspecials($40fortwo

people)suchasAlbanynannygaiwithchamomile

butter tick the boxes for both value and sustenance.

WINESOFWHILE

458 WilliamSt,Perth,(08) 9328 3332,winesofwhile.com

Perth’sgroundzerofornaturalwineopenedwitha bang

andthepartyhasn’tletupsince.SamWinfield’scosy

barandbottleshopis a deeplypersonalaffair,fromthe

strictwine-buyingpolicy– everywine,ata minimum,

hastobemadewithorganicgrapes– toa tightmenu

thatmirrorsthelist’sFrenchandItalianbias(greathouse

charcuterie!Satisfyingpastas!).Arriveearly to maximise

thechanceofscoringanoutdoortable.

Whattoorder:Winterseestheintroductionofgutsier

numberslikeroastedJerusalemartichokeswithbrown

butter; quiz the staff for something suitable to match.

TAS

WA

PHOTOGRAPHY

LUKE

BURGESS

(LUCINDA),

LULU

CAVANAGH

(WINES

OF

WHILE), FRANCES HEAD (MADALENA’S),

CARLTON TALBOT (MAEVE) & ANDREW VUKOSAV (MAGNUM + QUEENS).

62 GOURMET TRAVELLER