Australian Gourmet Traveller - (09)September 2020 (1)

Editor’s letter

nowis kindnessandempathy,which

comefromunderstandingtherealities

theyface.

Thisissueis dedicatedtoexploring

thoserealities,fromTristanLutze’s

StateoftheIndustryreporttoYvonne

Lam’spoignanttributetoChinatown.

Wealsospoketoa numberofchefsfor

a first-handinsightintotheirexperience,

as theyhaveresetandrecalibrated.

Laterthisyear,wewillpublisha

specialcelebrationissue,heroingthe

resilienceandcreativitythathascometo

theforethisyear.Fornow,wehopethis

issuewillshinea lightontheindustry,

helpingtospreadunderstanding and

encourage a little kindness.

[email protected] // FOLLOW@GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINEGOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU

A

ndthenit wasSeptember.

Typically,thisissuewould

heraldthewinnersofour

annualRestaurantAwards

andGuide.Giventherehasbeen

nothingtypicalabout 2020 sofar,it

willcomeas littlesurprisetolearnwe

havechosennottopublishthemthis

year.Logistically,it wasimpossible.No

soonerhadourteamofreviewersbegun

theprocessinMarch,it unravelledas

thecountrywentintolockdown.

Moreimportantly,wefeltcontinuing

withtheawards– inanyshapeorform

• wouldn’tservetheindustryat a time
  wheneverychefandrestaurateuris in
  a fightforsurvival.Particularlythosein
  Melbourne,whohavebeenhitdoubly
  hard.Webeganworkonthisissue
  beforethesecondMelbournelockdown
  began.Already,weknewtheimpactof
  Covid-19hadbeenseismic.Justwhat
  thenewhospitalitylandscapewilllook
  like– orwhenit willemerge– remains
  unclear.Inthemeantime,wewantto
  supporttheindustryandthosewho
  dedicatetheirlivestoit,bysharing
  theirstories– theirchallengesandtheir
  successes. What they need most right

Yellowfintunacrudo,Raes

Therichnessofrawtunais balanced

withfermentedkohlrabianda killer,

umami-drivendressing.Worththe9-hour

drive.6 MarinePde,ByronBay,NSW.

Joanna Hunkin, editor

Whatwe’re

eating...

Mandarintart,Sean’sPanaroma

Perfectlycrisppastry,silkycrème

patissiere,freshmandarinandzesty

gingerjellyresultin a sublimedessert.

270 CampbellPde,NorthBondi,NSW.

Cynthia Black, group food editor

Beefcarpaccio,Otto

Super-thinslicesofGraingeAngusbeef

cometoppedwithshavedWAtruffles,aïoli

andsaltycapers.8/6CowperWharfRdwy,

Woolloomooloo,NSW.GeorgieMeredith,

writer & editorial coordinator

SUBSCRIBENOW

magshop.com.au/gmt

Details p

p 87

Sopressini

pastawith

pestoalla

Trapanese

GOURMET TRAVELLER 13

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & BENITO MARTIN (PASTA)