SYDNEY
It maysounda littlecrazytoopena new
restaurantin thecurrentclimate,andeven
moresowithouta wealthofhospitality
experiencebehindyou,butfortunefavours
thebold,andMarrickvilleis welcomingthe
arrivalofPepito’s. JoséAlkonis thePeru-
born,Sydney-basedcinematographer-
turned-restaurantownertransferringhis
creativeskillstohospitalityviathisnew
neighbourhoodtaberna.ChefJeffreyForrest
is doingplatesofhouse-madehamwithsalsa
criolla,lettuceandchilli;andcodornizNikkei
(skeweredquailwithginger).Thewinelistis
a collaborativeeffortbetweennearbywine
barWhere’sNick,whichchampionsgrower-
producerwinesandthere’sa focuson
artisanalpisco-basedcocktails.
ArmsLengthhasopenedin Redfern,with
a young-gunteamledbyRebeccaO’Shea(ex-RockpoolDiningGroup)andchefJeffrey
Sue(whotrainedunderAlessandroPavoni
ofOrmeggio),slingingAustralian-Italian
influencedsmallplates.
Bathers’Pavilionis welcomingspring
andhastransformeditsrooftopfunction
roomintoa pop-upThairestaurantknown
asBetelLeafwithTyBellingham(headchef
oftheSailorsThaiGroup)atthehelm.
TheCBDis slowlygettingitsgrooveback,
withTheBentleyGroup’sintimatewinebar
MonopoleonthemovefromPottsPointto
AustraliaSquare;whileBlackStarPastry
hasa newlocationin TheGaleries.Finally,
PiccoloLeois thenewminiaturebakery
armofRestaurantLeo,withtruffle-flecked
croissantsandmortadellaandprovolone
danishesbypastrychefDougalMuffet
(formerlyoftheSouthernHighlands’
MoonacresKitchenbakery).BRISBANE
PastaClubis theWestEnd’snewkicking
carbcoteriethat’sallaboutBYOvinotogo
withyourpumpkinagnolotti,risottoMilanese
andtruffledmushroomarancini.Agnesis also
settoopenin allitsrestaurantglory,following
monthsofswitchingitsoperationstoserveas
a bakery.Now,chefBenWilliamsonwillsee
outhisoriginalplans,cookingsolelywith
fire.Hewillalsohonehisdryaging(local
swordfish,porkandwagyu)andbakingskills
(savourydoughnutsandmaltedsourdough).ADELAIDE
It’sa longplay,butFugazziBar& Dining
Roomis poisedtobringnewlifetoLeigh
Streetinearly2021.RestaurateurSimon
Kardachileadstheproject,joinedbyMax
andLauraSharradinthekitchen,plus
winemakerJustinLane.RESTAURANT NEWS
THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIADragon cake at Black Star
Pastry. Left: Arms Length’s
white anchovy crostini with
cannellini beans and dill,
and chicken liver pâté with
cornichons and onion jam.As we go to press, Victoria remains
subject to stage four lockdown
restrictions. Please continue to
support local restaurants, bars and
cafés by ordering takeaway, buying
groceries and supporting the
industry wherever possible. For
ongoing, up-to-date coverage,
head to gourmettraveller.com.au
If you are a Melbourne hospitality
business with news or updates
to share, please email us at
[email protected]18 GOURMET TRAVELLER
PHOTOGRAPHY NICK DE LORENZO (ARMS LENGTH) & DAN PRESTON (BLACK STAR PASTRY).