Australian Gourmet Traveller - (10)October 2019 (1)

VIC

BarMargaux

MichaelandZaraMadrusanbringa

stunninglate-nightfollow-uptoThe

EverleighandHeartbreakerwith

BarMargaux,a French-stylebar,

brasserieandsupperclub.Floors

arechequered,lightingis golden,

boothsareredleatherandthemenu

rangesfrommoulesmarinièresand

roastchickenfortwotogarlicky

snailswithPernodbutteranda

wickedlate-nightdouble-stack

burgerdrippinginBordelaisesauce.

Throwincocktailsofthecalibre

you’dexpectfroma Madrusan

venueandwines(allbytheglass)

thathitontheFrenchthemeand

it’sguaranteedgoodtimes,

sevendaysa week. 111 Lonsdale

St,Melbourne,(03)9650 0088,

barmargaux.com.au

DaughterinLaw

ChefJessiSingh’snewestopening

is brightandcolourful,bothinthe

décor– pinkwalls,blue-velvet

booths,Bollywoodfilmsonloopon

thewalls– andontheplate,where

Indianclassicsgeta contemporary

twist.Crisp“papadumcups”are

filledwithbeeftartareflavouredwith

greenmango,whilenaanis stuffed

withbluecheeseandtoppedwith

masala-spikedtomatosaucefora

pizzatowritehomeabout.Curries

rangefromnew-styletotraditional,

and there’s an outrageously

good-valuetastingmenufor$55.

Bringa crowd. 37 LittleBourke

St,Melbourne,(03) 92420814 ,

daughterinlaw.com.au

TettodiCarolina

RestaurateurJoeMammone(Il

Bacaro,BarCarolina)hasdoubled

downinSouthYarra,openingtwo

venuesinquicksuccession.Cantina

Carolinafunctionsasanall-daycafé,

servingItalian-stylebreakfastand

lunch(includinga naughtybreakfast

spaghetticarbonara),whileTetto

diCarolinais a rooftopbarwitha

luxeloungevibe,withtableservice

andlivejazzonSundays.Food

includesfried-chickenburgersand

crumbedlambribs,andcocktails

haveanItalianangle,suchasthe

AmericanBeauty, a prosecco-topped

spinonanAmericanowith

strawberryandjasmine. 48 Toorak

Rd,SouthYarra,(03)9867 7954,

tettodicarolina.com.au

Omnia

Omniawasonlymeanttobe

temporary,a dry-runforexecutive

chefStephenNairnaheadofthe

openingofthemammothCapitol

GrandprojectinSouthYarra

(andwithit threenewvenues),

butit’snowsettomoveintothe

developmentforthelonghaul.

ThatmeansevenmoreofNairn’s

Euro-inflectedplates,includinga

tartofbroccoliandGruyère,brik

pastry cigars filled with ocean trout,

andlemonywholefloundersauced

withbrownbutterandcapers.

Plusmoreopportunitiestotop-notch

cocktailswitha floatingislandfor

dessert.Grandnewsindeed.

23-25ToorakRd,SouthYarra,(03)

8080 8080, omniabistro.com.au

NSW

ChacoBarandChacoRamen

Pumpingoutsomeofthecity’s

finestyakitoriandrameninwhat’s

effectivelya holeinthewallhas

wornthinforKeitaAbe.Comethe

endofthemonth,he’staking

theyakitoritotheoldJimmyLiks

siteinPottsPoint,installingcharcoal

grillsasa centrepieceoftheopen

kitcheninthe90-seatspace.

Focusis thenameofthegame,with

Abeswitchinguphischickensfor

older,firmer,moreflavourfulbirds

andturningtheoriginalsiteintoa

ramen-onlyventure.Doublethefun.

ChacoBar, 186-188VictoriaSt,Potts

Point;ChacoRamen, 238 Crown

St,Darlinghurst,(02)9007 8352,

chacobar.com.au

CicciaBella

Acmemayhaveturnedoutthe

lights,butchefMitchOrris back

cookingpastaintheoldDaOrazio

siteundertheemployofMaurice

Terzini.Therearenobaloney

sandwiches,andthepastais

morepangrattatothanpig’shead,

butexpecttoseemortadellain

pocket-sizedfriedcalzone,and

Orrto playaroundtheedges

oftheSouthernItalianbrief.

Thewoodoven,meanwhile,is

gettinga workout,turningout

everythingfromwholefishto

snack-sizedpizzettewith

JamesHird’sall-Italianwinelist

complementingthemenu.75-79

Hall St, Bondi Beach, (02) 8090 6969

Shwarmama

TheforcesbehindEsterand

ParamountCoffeeProjectcombine

withShwarmama,anall-day

takeawayand10-seaterinSurry

Hills. Shawarma and falafelare➤

Above:Tetto

diCarolina’s

duckliver

parfaitcannoli,

pistachioand

selectspritz

relish.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 83

WORDS DAVID MATTHEWS. PHOTOGRAPHY GARETH SOBEY (BAR MARGAUX), KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (TETTO DI CAROLINA).