Australian Gourmet Traveller - (10)October 2019 (1)

LE REBELLE

Above:Le

Rebelle’s

hand-cut

jamón,and

bluemanna

crabtoastwith

lemonmayo

and pickle.

thenameofthegame,withMat

Lindsayservingspicedrôtisserie

lambwrappedinflatbread,

crisp-friedfalafelinpitadaubed

withmangopickle,anda not-Halal

snackpackloadedwithhouse-made

hummusandalltherest.There’s

wineontap,butcomebreakfastit’s

allaboutthePCPcoffeetogowith

Israelisabich stuffedwitheggplant,

boiledeggsandpickles.Shop2,

106-112Commonwealth St, Surry Hills

CafePaci

Fouryears.That’showlongit ’s been

sincePasiPetänenhada restaurant

hecouldcallhisown.Butthismonth

shouldseehimrelaunchthepop-up

heranasCafePaciinpermanent

digsonKingSt reet(seeNews,p31).

Init,he’llshowoffsometrickshe

learntcookinginthewilderness:

spiced,butterydevilledeggs

inspiredbyLankanFillingStation,

say.Thebriefis lessformal,more

fun,withtheà la cartemenulisting

thelikesof’ndujawithfermented

carrots,sourdoughstrozzapretti

withpearandpecorino,and

buckwheatandbloodblinismeared

withwhippedporkfat.Giorgio

DeMariais onwineduty, sothe

drinkingis guaranteedtobe

fabulous.131 King St, Newtown

ACT

RebelRebel

SeanMcConnell’slong-awaited

projectfollowinghisdeparturefrom

Monster,RebelRebelis finallyready

toopen.It’sanall-dayaffair, with

thelikesofbroadbeansandricotta

ontoastatbreakfast,andbeef

tartarewithtahiniandzhoug, or

eggplantwithtroutroeandsmoked

yoghurtatlunchanddinner.The

Europe-leaningmenuis still

shotthroughwiththesamedaring

streakthatsawMcConnell’s

yabbyjafflesetheartsaflutter.

Thecoffeeis fromBarrio,anda

bar-bottle-shopwithwinesfrom

smallandinterestingproducers

frontsa venuedeckedoutwith

reclaimed Australian hardwood

anddoingfineeat-inandtakeaway

(graba porchettapaninotogo)

inequalmeasure.Shop1, 21-23

MarcusClarkeSt,NewActon East,

rebelrebeldining.com.au

SA

Joybird

ThestartingpointforAdamListon’s

follow-uptoShoboshois the

Aussiechickenshop,butwhich

one?Thankfully,wedon’thave

tochoose.Therearethechicken

andgravyrollsoftheleafysuburbs

piquedwithyuzukoshoranch

dressing,thebutterfliedcharcoal

chooksofthePortugueseand

Lebanesetakeawaysbutflavoured

witha seven-spicedryrub,Korean

firesauceorBalinesecurry,anda

slawriffingonChang’snoodlesalad

for good measure. Light and bright,

withvinylbanquettes,localwines

andtinnies,it’sthesit-inand

take-outchickenshopAdelaide

didn’tknowit wasmissing.

164 KingWilliamRd, Hyde Park,

(08) 8349 0891

TheSummertownAristologist

WithchefsBriannaSmithandOliver

EdwardshavingleftSummertown

behindthem,a coupleoffriends

aresteppingintocoveruntila

permanentchefis found.AsLuke

Burgess’s residencydrawstoa

close,enterDavidMoyle(Longsong,

Franklin).ExpectMoyletoberaiding

thespringgarden,curingmeat

andpicklingwiththebestofthem,

aswellasslingingsmoked-fish

sandwichestomatchwiththe

single-mindedwinelist. 1097

GreenhillRd,Summertown, 0477410

105, thesummertownaristologist.com

MERIVALEMARCHESON

It’ssettobea summertorememberforMerivale,whichis preparinga clutchofnewvenues.Little

Felixis alreadybringingevenmoreParisiancharmtoAshSt reetin Sydney’sCBD, andwillbejoined

byBarTotti’s,a spin-offoftheMed-styleBondifavourite(lookoutforanotherTotti’s at3 Weeds

Rozelle),plusa Lebanesebar-dinerheadedbySimonZallouaaroundthecorneronGeorgeSt reet.

Meanwhile,DanHongrevivesLotusthismonthin theoldFishShopsitein PottsPoint(seeNews,

p21)and, fiveyearssincejoiningMerivale,JordanToft(Bert’s)looksever-closertodoingwhathe

was hiredtodo in 2014, taking charge of the long-awaited second level at Coogee Pavilion. PHOTOGRAPHY JACQUELINE VAN GROOTEL (LE REBELLE), KARA HYNES (LOUIS TIKARAM).

84 GOURMET TRAVELLER