Above:Louis
Tikaram,
headchef
at Stanley.WA
LeRebelle
Old-worldcharmcomestothewest
withSarahandLiamAtkinson’sspin
ona NewYork-y,Parisian-ybistro
witha senseofadventure.Light
streamsintothefrontbarthrough
enormouswindowswheresnacks
suchasbluemannacrabandlemon
mayonnaiseontoastmatchnicely
witha winelistwitha Eurolean.
Up theback, thediningroomis
servingthelikesofbarbecuedfish
withtomatoandwhitebeans, and
a glazedduckbreastwithfrites
anda totallyindulgentbéarnaise
sauce.Mondieu. 676 BeaufortSt,
MountLawley,(08)6161 3100,
lerebelle.com.au
Besk
Besk,thelong-awaited200-seater
inWestLeederville,describesitself
asa bar,kitchen,bottleshopand
café,whichbasicallymeansit’s
gearedforalltimesandallcomers.
StopinforFiveSensesbatch
brewintheAM,orgraba bottle
oflow-interventionwinefromthe
bottleshopanddrinkit in-house
witha grass-fedsteakoffthewood
grill.Disheschangewithsupplybut
expectpubclassicstakenup
a notch,includingfishandchipsand
daily-changingroasts.Lookoutfor
collabswithlocalwinemakersand
brewers, too. 264 RailwayPde,
West Leederville, (08) 6319 2290
QLD
YokoDining
Soft-serveandshaved-icedesserts,
a vinylbarupstairs,a cocktailmenu
heavyonsoursandhighballs,
designbyGeorgeLivissianisthat’s
beingdescribedasfuturisticretro
Tokyo, a self-pouring beer machine,
andformerAriaBrisbanechef
BenRusselloverseeingthemenu.
JonathanBarthelmess’s120-seat
izakayaatHowardSmithWharves,
duetoopenearlyNovember,trades
insharedplatesandgoodtimes,
withsnacksincludingsavourymiso
doughnuts,a rawseafoodbar,and
maincoursesrangingfrompork
katsusetstonoodlesservedwith
anarrayofcondimentsandsauces
fordipping.HowardSmithWharves,
5 Boundary St, BrisbaneZaZaTa
MediterraneanandMiddle
Easternflavourscombineatthis
Valleynewcomerheadedbychef
DarioManca(PiluatFreshwater,
Motorwagen)andoverseenby
chefRoyNer(formerlyofNour
inSydney).Thekitchenis open,
thedesignbrightandpatterned,
andthemoodbuzzing,while
menuscrossall-inbrunch
spreads,whippedhummuswith
beefcheekforbarsnacks,and
shareplatesincludingrainbow
troutcookedovercoalsandlamb
neckwithmerguezstuffingfor
dinner.Thewinelist,meanwhile,
highlights“TelAviv-style”Harkham
winesamongclassicsandnew-wave
dropsfromnearandfar.Ovolo
Valley, 1000 AnnSt, Fortitude Valley,
(07) 3253 6932Stanley
FreshfromheadingE.P.&L.P. in
LosAngeles,LouisTikaramis
setfora homecoming,having
beenannouncedasthehead
chefatStanley,thelong-delayed
Cantoneserestaurantduetoopen
atHowardSmithWharvesthis
month.A MrWongforBrisbane?
The 300 seatsanda big-ticket
winelistfromsommelierIanTrinkle
suggestas much. But expect“Expect TikaramtotakeCanto classicsinhis own
direction,startingwithsalt-and-peppermudcrab,
and rock lobster with ginger and spring onion.”TikaramtotakeCantoclassics
inhisowndirection,startingwith
salt-and-peppermudcrab,rock
lobsterwithgingerandspringonion,
friedricefromthewoks,theusual
andnot-so-usualdimsumfrom
thefrontkitchen,andbarbecued
meats– duck,porkandmaybeeven
goose– fromupback.A flagship
projectwithloadsofambition
andtalentonboard.Getexcited.
HowardSmithWharves, 5 Boundary
St, Brisbane●GOURMET TRAVELLER 85