142 GOURMET TRAVELLER
governmentchargesvisitorsfromoutsidetheregionbetween
US$200($298)andUS$250($370)a day,dependingonthe
season,a feethatincludesa guideanda driver.It’sdescribed
as “low-volume,high-value”tourism,engineeredtoprotectthe
country’spricelesstwinresourcesofcultureandenvironment.
SeeingthekingdomwithAmanis a sure-firewaytoincrease
anyone’sgrosspersonalhappiness.Thefirstinternational
operatortoopeninthecountry 16 yearsago,theresortgroup’s
softly-softlyapproachtohigh-endtourismis wellsuitedto
Bhutan’sunflappableserenity.TheAmankora(“kora”means
“circularpilgrimage”inDzongkha)is a journeyaroundfive
lodgesspreadthroughthecentralandwesternvalleysofParo,
Thimphu,Punakha,PhobjikhaandBumthang.It’sa greatest
hitsoftheBhutanesecountryside,showcasingthestriking
differencesfoundina countryonly 300 kilometreseasttowest.
TheworkofthelateAustralianarchitectKerryHill,each
ofthelodgesexudeslow-filuxury.Designedas moderndzongs- fortress-monasterieswithsternprotectivewallsandcloistered
courtyards– thebuildingsblendinwiththeenvironmentand
paya veryBellemagazinehomagetoBhutanesearchitecture.
Façadesofwhite-washedrammedearthtoppedbytraditional
carvedwoodenroofsareallstylishmysterywithjusta touch
ofJamesBondvillain’slair.Interiorsbringthewarmth,thanks
toacresofclean-linedhoneyedtimberandtouchesofstone.
Spaciousguestroomsfollowthesamelayoutfromlodge
tolodge(allthebettertofindthehairdryerandpoweradaptor,
mydear)witha daycouchperfectforlollingbeneathpicture
windows,a standalonecentralbathfromwhichyoucan
surveyyourmini-kingdom,anda traditionalbukhariwood
heater– a metalfireboxoffiercestrength.
Eachlodgeunderstandsthepowerofa dramaticentrance.
InPhobjikha,wepadacrossa soft,palegreencarpetoffallen
pineneedles;inPunakhawewalkacrossa suspensionbridge
lacedwithprayerflagstoa waitinggolfbuggythatzipsthrough
orchardsandricepaddiestoanornatelydecoratedformer
farmhousestillownedbytheroyalfamily.
ThelodgeinThimphu,perchedonthelipofa forestedgully
fiveminutes’driveabovethecapital,hasthemostunderstated
location.Thequeenmotherlivesnextdoor– wedobutsee
herpassingbyina smallbutimportant-lookingconvoy.If she’s
lucky,she,too,fallsasleeptothesoundofthestreamburbling
overrocksandthemuffledswooshofpinetrees.
Thimphu’smainmarketis a shortwalkaway.It’sa two-storey
Shangri-Labazaarfullofcolourfulaislesoffruitandvegetables,
wherethemostlyorganicBhutaneseproduceis prizedover
cheaperIndianimports.Thereareendlessvarietiesofrice,
stringsofdriedyakcheeselozenges(suckthemorwearthem
asa necklace– takeyourpick).Alltheaccoutrementsyouneed
fora head-warming,betelnut-chewingbuzzwillsetyouback
just 20 ngultrum(about 42 cents).
Andtherearechillies.AmericanfoodwriterRuthReichlonce
declaredBhutanesecuisinetheworstintheworld,butperhaps
shesimplycouldn’ttaketheheat.Chilliis theopiateofthese
masses.It is toBhutanesefoodas butteris toFrench.Redchillies
canbeseeneverywheredryingonflattinroofs,whiletheirfresh
green cousins star in the national dish of ema datshi, a fiery➤
Americanfoodwriter
RuthReichloncedeclared
Bhutanesecuisine theworst
intheworld,butperhaps
she simplycouldn’ttakethe
heat.Chilli istoBhutanese
food as butter is to French.