Australian Gourmet Traveller - (11)November 2019 (1)

(Comicgek) #1

24 GOURMET TRAVELLER


PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (PASTORE), ROHAN THOMSON (REBEL REBEL) & NIKKI TO (BATHERS’ PAVILION).

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SYDNEY
SergeDansereau
hasoverseen
Bathers’Pavilion
fortwodecades.
And,likea smart
showrunnerofa long-runningTV
series,heis bringingin a newcast
torebootBalmoral’sbeachfront
institution.CamFairbairnandJess
Mead(bothfromAcme)willbejoining
theserviceteam,whileKumikoEndo
(Attica,Fujisaki)willcreatetheelegant
dessertssheis knownfor;finish
a sun-dazedmealwithheryuzu
savarinwithyuzugelée,mangoand
Champagneice-cream(pictured)or
anarchitecturallyelaborateÉpoisses
moussewithraspberryandjuniper.
CameronJohnston(Jonah’s)returns
asheadchefafterfouryearsaway,
withdishessuchasceleriacgalette
andseaweed,kingfishescabèche
withburntchilli,andbouillabaisse.

BRISBANE
Whenchef
ValerieFreitakes
tothekitchenat
FortitudeValley’s
Baja, shewon’t
justbebringingmemoriesand
cookingexperiencesfromhertime
inOaxaca,Mexico;herdisheswill
alsobenefitfromthefivekilograms
oflocaldriedchilliesshepacked
alongwithherrecipes.Freiworked
atRutz,a Michelin-starredwinebar
andrestaurantinBerlin,before
movingtoOaxaca,whereshemet
JulioAguilerafromElDestilado.
There,thechefsworkedon
Baja’sSoCal-basedmenu,before
translatingtheflavourstoAustralia.
They’returningupthespice
levelsonoctopustentacleswith
a squid-inkburnt-jalapeñosoy
sauce,habanerolimejuiceand
chillioil,andfillingtacoswith
beer-batteredkingfish,mushroom
moleortheclassicspicymarinated
pork.A drinkslistthatincludes
MezcalNegronisandMexican
beerswillnicelycounterthe
menu’sgeneroususeofchilli.

MELBOURNE
ScottPickett
(pictured)is
expandinghis
restaurantempire
(Estelle,Lupo
andMatilda)withPastoreatHotel
Chadstone.Thechefin chargewillbe
MircoSperi(ThirtyEightChairs)and
withthenewventure’snamemeaning
“shepherd”in Italian,they’reriffing
onthethemewithgrass-fedmeats
(thinkwood-smokedlambrump
withcharredeggplant,hazelnutand
sheep’smilkyoghurt,andBistecca
allaFiorentina)anddessertsthattap
intothearea’shistoryasanorchard
producingcherries,pearsandplums.

CANBERRA
Anyone who has
missed Sean
McConnell’s
cooking since he
left Monster (i.e.
everyone) will be glad he has opened
Rebel Rebel. Take a seat at his all-day
diner and you might enjoy smoked
beef tartare, a serve of sardine
piadina or a harissa and feta omelette.

Top left: burrata
with smoked-
cashew salsa
macha, coriander
garlic toast,
guacamole, and
corn chips at
Baja. Top right:
duck prosciutto,
eggplant fritti
with aged
parmesan and
prawns (fried with
prawn mayo, as
well as wood-
roasted king
prawns with
fermented
tomato) at
Pastore.

ChannelthebestofAustralian
catwalkswithVittoriaCoffee’s
Fashion Series limited-edition
range of cups. There are 12 new
designs, which range from works
by big hitters (Dion Lee) to names
to watch (like Whitehouse Institute
student design competition
winner Caroline Reznik).
Ceramic Latte Set, $49.95,
vittoriacoffee.com

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