Australian Gourmet Traveller - (11)November 2019 (1)

Thedeftdrinkslist

ensurestherewillbeasmany

peopleusingMargauxto

drinkcocktailsasthereare

flockingtherefordinneror

supper.Thecocktaillistis

compactandleanstowards

classics.Twoofthem– a

MartiniandManhattan

• comein“snacksize”,
  three-gulpdrinksforjust
  $12,makingthemidealfor
  a midweekpre-dinnertipple
  thatoffersaMadMen-style
  vibewithhalfthehangover.
  Thewineoffering
  leansFrench,asmuch
  throughvarietalaslabel,
  withWhisperingAngel
  roséfromProvencesitting
  alongsideNewWorldversionsofpinot
  noir(NannyGoatfromCentralOtago)
  anda solidlistofChampagnethat
  includesnon-vintageKrugbytheglass.
  Bargain-huntersshouldheadto
  MargauxfortheGoldenHour,from4pm
  to6pmeveryday,whenthecheeseburger
  (rich with a marrow-studded sauce) is

Left:soupeà l’oignon.

Below:executivechef

Daniel Southern.

THEROOFISOUTTHERE

SouthYarraItaliandinerBarCarolinais

nowjoinedbya daytimecafé,Cantina

Carolina,andswankyrooftopbar,Tetto

diCarolina(above),whichfeaturesa

smooth,ChrisConnell-designedfit-out,its

ownmenu(scallopcarpaccio,duck-liver-

parfaitcannoli)anda drinkslistthat

includesclassicandItalian-accented

cocktailsalongsidea fewOldandNew

Worldwines.Adda fullyretractable

canvasroofandsummeris sorted.Level1,

48 ToorakRd,SouthYarra,(03)9867 7954.

GOODEVENING,VIETNAM

ChefJerryMai(Annam,PhoNom)

hasopenedBiaHoi, Melbourne’sfirst

Vietnamesebeerhall.Channellingthe

streetsnacksofSaigonandHanoi,Bia

Hoi’smenuincludescrispchickenskin,

friedchickenribs,marinatedbeefskewers

andVietnamesebarbecue.Thebeermenu

offersBiaHoiandmoreontap,plusa

wideselectionofVietnameseclassicsand

localcraftbeers.TheGlen, 235 Springvale

Rd,GlenWaverley,(03)8813 0729.

HOTTERTHANHELL

JoeJones,drinksaficionadoandownerof

CBDcocktailbarRomeoLane,hasgone

messier,darkerandlouderwithMono-XO.

It featureskushiyaki-stylefoodcooked

overa tinycharcoalgrill,meticulously

madehighballs,sake,a shortlistofnatural

wineanda soundtrackthat’sfondofKiss.

Goodingredients– tripe,tofu,prawns,

sweetbreads– getskeweredbyco-owner

SamStafford(MomofukuSeiobo),who

bringsa powerfularrayofpan-Asian

seasoningstothemix.191aSmithSt (enter

via Charles St), Fitzroy, monoxo.com.au

AND ALSO...

BarMargaux

Basement,

111 LonsdaleSt,

Melbourne,

(03) 9650 0088,

barmargaux.com.au

Licensed

CardsAEMCV EFT

OpenSun-Thu4pm-3am,

Fri-Sat4pm-5am

PricesEntrées$14-$25,

maincourses$26-$39,

desserts$14-$15

VegetarianTwoentrées,

onemaincourse

NoiseRobust

WheelchairfriendlyNo

PlusMorelate-night

goodtimesin Melbourne

MinusThemorningafter

the late-night good times

Details

teamedwitha glassof

Burgundy,ormoulesfrites

arematchedwitha glass

ofSancerreforjust$29.

Thevalueformoneyis

notable.Mostofthemain

courses– includingseveral

well-sourced,precisely

cookedsteaksservedwith

poivreorbéarnaisesauce

andfries– arepriced

under$40.Otherdishes,

suchasa superbduck

fritesthat’sservedwith

saucemadefromthe

duckbones,stillread

asbangforyourbuck.

Orderthesoufflé,

• particularlyif the
  blood-orangespecialis on.
  Thekitchenknowswhatit’sdoing.
  BarMargauxmightseemfamiliar,
  butthere’sreallynothingelselike
  it inMelbourne.And,asyou’re
  contemplatingthemenuat 2am,
  wonderingwhethertogotheboudin
  blancorthelobstercroque-monsieur,
  you’ll thank it for its service.●

52 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY GARETH SOBEY (SOUPE À L’OIGNON) & TASH SORENSEN (PORTRAIT).

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