Australian Gourmet Traveller - (11)November 2020 (1)

MELBOURNE

AsVictoriaslowlyreopens,withit comes

somenewofferingsfromboldandbrave

hospitalityfolk.Tinypop-uppasticceria

MonforteViennoiseriehascroppedup

inCarltonNorth.You’llfinda changing

rotationofshort-runpastries:oneweek

youmaygeta leatherwoodhoneyand

seasaltcroissant,thenext,onetopped

withasparagus,goat’scurdandhazelnut.

OwnerGiorgiaMcAllisterFortespent

thepastfouryearslearningtricksof

thetradefromBorisPortnoyatAll

AreWelcome.

AsMarionrevertsbacktoitsoriginal

winebarformat,justa fewdoorsdown

you’llbeabletoenjoythecommunity

groceryvibesofthispivotpermanently.

MorningMarketwilltakecuesfrom

theMarionGrocer,offeringsandwiches,

saladsandcoffee,alongsidefreshfruit,

vegetablesandflowers,andbreadby

BakerBleu.

SYDNEY

Aftertheupheavalofthisyear,chefsare

nowonthemovetobringnewlifeto

Sydneymainstays.NikHillhastakentoLa

RosaatTheStrandfora pop-updubbed

TheMilanCricketClub. It’spitchedas

a British-Italiansteakhouse,butthere’s

nota squiggleofpastain sight.“Thefood

is farmoreBritishthanItalian,”saysHill.

Similarly,NigelWard(formerlyofSagra)

willbreathenewlifeintotheIvy’sUccello.

He’llmakethemostoftheexisting

wood-firedoven,servingupUlladulla

rubysnapperwithsalsaverdeand

MelandaParksucklingpig.MitchOrris

alsoonthemove,headingupthekitchen

atFreshwater’sPiluBarettoNights.

BRISBANE

EagleStreetPierhaswelcomedNaga.

Bangkok-bornheadchefSuwisa

Phoonsangis returningtoherroots,

steamingchormuang(flower-shaped

dumplings),stir-fryingpadkrapaogai

(Phoonsang’slunchofchoice)and

slow-cookingkhaosoi,ChiangMai’s

curry-noodle-soup.The150-seatvenue

is pinnedasa “long-termpop-up”,driven

byAndrewandJaimeeBaturoof

French-VietnameserestaurantLibertine.

RESTAURANT NEWS

THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIA

Pad Thai with Moreton Bay

bugs at Naga. Clockwise from

top right: leatherwood honey and

sea salt croissant at Monforte

Viennoiserie; Nigel Ward joins

Uccello as head chef.

18 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY MATT CURNOCK (MOUA), KITTI GOULD (PORCH & PARLOUR), DARCY STARR (NAGA) & STEVEN WOODBURN (NIGEL WARD).