Australian Gourmet Traveller - (07)July 2020 (1)

A chef’s guide

GOURMET TRAVELLER 117

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (ADELAIDE),

AstoldtoJessicaRiggfor

TheLocalTongue.Formore

chef’sguidesfromaroundthe

world, seethelocaltongue.com

wife)runningthefloorensuresit’s

somewhereI’llkeepgoingbackto.

Nathan’sknownforhissmallgoods

andtheyarefuckinglegendary.His

grilled-tongueskeweris awesome,

as is the focaccia that every table gets.

Afghan flavours

Parwanais oneofthemostconsistent

restaurantsin theworldandhometo

someofthebestAfghanifoodoutside

ofAfghanistan.It is runbyfamily

andthefoodis cookedandserved

byfamily.Asthestorygoes,Mama

Ayubiusedtobethecheffortheking

ofAfghanistan,andthefoodserved

attherestaurantis a royalbanquet

menu,whiletheiroff-shootKutchi

DeliParwanais a celebrationof

streetfood.TheAyubisdowhat

theydowithheart,integrity and flair.

Caffeine hit

AtExchangeCoffee,thecoffee’s

sick,thefoodis interestingandthe

serviceis good.Thewateris atthe

righttemperatureandhastheright

sparkle: it’s really laser sharp like that.

A late-night institution

YingChowis likea dirtierversionof

SupperInninMelbourne.It’scheap,

cheerfulandabrupt,butit’sopen

lateandit’sa goodtimewhenyou’re

drunk.Everyone’sgottheirfavourite

dishes;mygo-tosaremapotofu,the

BBC– beancurds,beansandchilli

• andthesaltandpeppereggplant.

Value formoney

I wouldsayThairestaurantGolden

Boyhasbeenthebusiestrestaurant

inthestateandhasbeensmashed

withtakeawayorders.There’sa

brilliantcurrymenu– thegreen

chickencurryis a stapleandthe

massamanis special.Theymake

curryproperly,fromthewaythey

crackthecoconutcreamtousing

amazingwagyuchuckwithreally

goodfatcontent.Theflavoursare

bigandtheportionsaregenerous

• youcanfeedsixpeoplewith
  a coupleofcurriesandsomerice.

All-day French dining

HeyJupiteris likeanall-dayFrance-

Soir(Melbourne)andis allabout

itsowners,ChristopheandJacqui.

Forbreakfastyoucanhavethe

croquemonsieurorthecontinental

breakfastwithhamandpastriesand

a littlebottleofchampagne,then

moveontolunchforsteakfritesor

daubeofbeef.Thenintheevening,

you’rehavingcaviarorreallygood

Frenchclassicslikecoqauvin.It’s

unashamedly French and great.

Where to drink wine

Hellboundis a properSouth

Australianwinebar.WhenI say

it’sSouthAustralian,I meanit’sa

clubhouseforwinemakers,chefs,

hospoworkers,andfashionand

PRpeople.Thewinelistis built

onwhatwewanttodrink.It’sgot

a reallygreatnaturalselectionand

thespiritcollectionis excellent.

Old-school hospitality

I liketakingmyfamilytoMeze

Maziwhichis aroundthecorner

fromourhousein Prospect.It’s

probablyAdelaide’sbestGreek

restaurant.You’vegottherealold-

schoolhospitalityofownerAndrew

Papadakis,who’sthetypeofguythat

remembersthetableeverycustomer

likesandtheirfirstdrinkorder.There’s

somefunstuffonthemenu,too.

The morning after

There’sa placecalledPhoMinh

in MansfieldParkwhichis theOG

gangsterphojoint.I gettheoxtailpho

anda sideofbrokenricewithmeat,

eggsandchillisambal.Generally

I gotheretotopupmyserotonin

levelsfromthenightbefore.

Last but not least

Africola.MyinterpretationofAfrican

dishesusingworld-widetechniques.

It’s delicious, simple and interesting.●

Clockwisefrom

topright:Dishes

atAfricola;Wineat

LeighStreetWine

Room;Africola’s

fire-roastedwaygu

withmorogo,

anchovysauceand

katsuobushi;Leigh

StreetWineRoom.

Opposite: Adelaide.