102 JANUARY 2020
leaving at least 2 inches between mounds.
(Make sure pancakes are close enough
so that all 4 mounds will fit under the
aluminum pan.) Spoon 2 tablespoons
water on surface of the griddle around
the pancakes. Immediately cover pan-
cakes with the inverted aluminum pan to
steam-griddle them. Cook until top of
batter looks dry and bottom of pancakes
are lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Using
2 thin spatulas (such as fish spatulas),
carefully flip pancakes. Spoon 2 table-
spoons water on surface of griddle
around pancakes. Cover with inverted
aluminum pan, and cook until pancakes
are set, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer pancakes
to serving plates. Repeat process with
remaining batter and water. Top with
butter and maple syrup. Sprinkle with
powdered sugar. Serve immediately.
—JACK POON AND SUNG TAEK, FLUFFY’S NYC,
NEW YORK CITY
NOTE To make one giant soufflé pancake:
Grease a 3-quart multicooker insert with
softened butter. Fill with half the batch of
batter, and smooth top. Cover and cook
on Cake function until top is set, about 35
minutes. Use a small offset spatula to
loosen sides of pancake. Invert onto a
serving platter.Austrian Apple Pancake
PHOTO P. 73
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN
SERVES 8A traditional kaiserschmarrn (often trans-
lated as “emperor’s mess”) is torn or cut
after baking and tossed with compote. At
her Los Angeles restaurant République,
chef Margarita Manzke serves her version
whole with the compote baked right in to
layer the flavor into each bite.(^1) / 4 cup unsalted butter, plus more for
greasing skillet
(^3) / 4 cup granulated sugar, divided, plus
more for dusting skillet
1 large Fuji apple, peeled and sliced
into^1 /^4 -inch-thick slices
11 / 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
3 Tbsp. (1^1 / 2 oz.) gold rum (such as
Bacardí), divided
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 oz. cream cheese, at room
temperature
(^2) / (^3) cup sour cream (5 oz.), at room
temperature
(^1) / 4 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
7 large egg whites, at room
temperature
(^1) / 4 tsp. cream of tartar
Dulce de leche ice cream and
powdered sugar, for serving
- Preheat oven to 375°F with oven rack in
lower third of oven. Combine butter and^1 / 4
cup granulated sugar in a medium skillet
over medium. Cook, stirring constantly,
until sugar starts to dissolve, butter is
melted, and mixture is lightly browned, 3
to 5 minutes. Add apple, lemon juice, and
(^1) / 4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring constantly,
until apples are crisp-tender and sauce is
syrupy, about 2 minutes. (Sauce may
seize up when you add the apples but will
smooth out as it cooks.) Remove skillet
from heat; turn off burner.
- Pour 2 tablespoons rum into a heat-
proof measuring cup with a pour spout.
Working quickly, pour rum into skillet with
apple mixture. Carefully ignite the fumes
just above mixture with a stick lighter or
long match. Gently shake skillet until
flames extinguish, about 20 seconds. - Place skillet over medium-high, and
cook, stirring often, until mixture is syr-
upy, about 1 minute and 30 seconds. Pour
apple mixture through a fine wire-mesh
strainer into a bowl, reserving syrup in a
bowl for drizzling. Cool apple slices com-
pletely, about 15 minutes, and set aside. - Whisk together egg yolks,^1 / 4 cup granu-
lated sugar, and remaining 1 tablespoon
rum in a large bowl. Whisk in cream
cheese and sour cream until mostly
smooth. Whisk in flour and remaining^1 / 4
teaspoon salt until smooth. Pour batter
through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a
large bowl, pressing mixture with the
back of a spoon to remove any lumps. Set
aside. - Beat egg whites in bowl of a heavy-duty
stand mixer fitted with a whisk attach-
ment on medium speed until frothy, about
30 seconds (reserve yolks for another
use). Add cream of tartar. Continue beat-
ing on medium speed, gradually adding
remaining^1 / 4 cup granulated sugar, until
mixture is glossy and forms soft peaks, 2
to 3 minutes (do not overwhip). Working in
2 batches, gently fold egg white mixture
into batter mixture until just combined. - Grease a 10-inch ovenproof skillet with
butter; dust with granulated sugar.
Arrange flambéed apple slices in an even
layer on bottom of skillet. Top with batter,
smoothing top. Bake in preheated oven
until golden brown, puffed, and set, 28 to
30 minutes, tenting with aluminum foil
after 22 minutes if needed to prevent
excess browning. Top with ice cream, and
dust with powdered sugar. Serve immedi-
ately with reserved flambéed apple syrup.
—MARGARITA MANZKE, RÉPUBLIQUE,
LOS AN G ELES
MAKE AHEAD Apples and syrup mixture
can be made 1 day ahead.
NOTE Refrigerate leftover egg yolks in an
airtight container up to 3 days.
Japanese Soufflé Pancakes
PHOTO P. 75
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 5 MIN
SERVES 4Soufflé pancakes are all about speed and
temperature: Cold egg whites whip more
slowly than room temperature ones, but
they form stronger, more uniform bubbles;
whipping them on medium speed incor-
porates more air. Piping the batter in one
swift pass allows you to create more
height without overcooking each pancake.1 cup bleached cake flour (about 3^3 /^4
oz.) (such as Swans Down)
1 tsp. baking powder(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt
6 large egg yolks, chilled
(^1) / (^2) cup whole milk
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
8 large egg whites, chilled
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
(^1) / 2 cup granulated sugar
Unsalted butter, for greasing
griddle and serving
(^1) / (^2) cup water, divided
Disposable aluminum lasagna pan
(13 x 9 inches with a depth of at
least 3^1 / 2 inches)
Pure maple syrup and powdered
sugar, for serving
- Whisk together flour, baking powder,
and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk together
6 egg yolks, milk, and vanilla in a large
bowl. Gradually sift flour mixture into yolk
mixture; whisk until smooth. Chill at least
20 minutes or up to overnight (about 8
h o u r s). - Place 8 egg whites in bowl of a heavy-
duty stand mixer (save remaining yolks
for another use). Freeze until egg whites
are partially frozen, about 15 minutes.
Add lemon juice to egg whites, and beat
with a whisk attachment on medium
speed, gradually adding sugar, until glossy
and stiff peaks form, 6 to 8 minutes.
Using a hand whisk, gently fold egg white
mixture into chilled batter, in 2 additions,
until just incorporated. Using a rubber
spatula, finish folding, if needed, to fully
incorporate. Transfer half of batter to a
large piping bag or ziplock plastic bag
with a 1-inch hole cut in one corner. Keep
remaining batter chilled, uncovered, while
cooking the first batch. - Preheat a large electric griddle to
300°F. Lightly grease griddle with butter.
Pipe 4 cone-shaped mounds of batter,
about 3 inches wide on bottom and 3
inches tall (do not layer the batter),
PANCAKE HOT TAKE from p. 81