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14 JANUARY 2020
2017 THE HILT ESTATE PINOT
NOIR ($45)
The seductive texture of this
wine is hard to resist, with its lay-
ers of black raspberry and cherry
floating on superfine tannins.
Matt Dees, one of the most tal-
ented winemakers in the ocean-
cooled Sta. Rita Hills appellation,
uses a small percentage of
whole-cluster fermentation to
add an ethereal spice note.
HEPPLE GIN ($44)
Maybe it’s because of juniper’s
wintry scent, but I’ve long been
a fan of martinis when it’s freez-
ing out. With gins now defining
themselves by the oddest botani-
cals (bladderwort, anyone?), it’s
nice to find this one, which truly
focuses on juniper by featuring
three different types: Italian,
Macedonian, and wild green juni-
per from northern England.
2017 TABLAS CREEK
GRENACHE BLANC ($30)
Jason Haas’ 2017 Grenache
Blanc is my idea of a winter
white—full-bodied but not heavy,
with notes of pear and melon
and a faint hint of honey, ending
cleanly on chalky minerality. If
you want to get fanciful, it tastes
the way it feels to watch snow fall
outside when you’re inside and
warm feels. Either way, I like it.
What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor
Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month
STAFF-FAVORITE PAIRING
OVEN-BRAISED VEAL STEW WITH
BLACK PEPPER AND CHERRIES
with cherry-scented Georgian red:
2017 Teliani Valley Saperavi
STAFF-FAVORITE
PAIRING
50
key:
COCKTAILS & DRINKS
••• Pomegranate-Ginger
Spritz P. 5 8
•• Ruby Red Spritz P. 5 9
•• Spiced Pear Spritz P. 5 9
•• Tarragon-Mint Vodka P. 3 1
•• Winter Tonic P. 1 8
STARTERS & SIDES
- Beet-and-Horseradish
Tartare with Fresh Carrot
Sauce P. 3 5
•• Coconut-Creamed Swiss
Chard P. 3 5
- Garlic Toasts with Lemon
Aioli and Marinated Beans
P. 4 6
- Sausage-Stuffed Fried
Olives P. 5 2
SOUPS
- Caldo de Pollo P. 1 0 3
Everybody Soup P. 1 0 3
- Herbed Lemongrass
Broth with Shrimp P. 4 3
- Orzo and Chickpeas
with Turmeric-Ginger
Broth P. 4 2
•• Salmon Ochazuke P. 4 0
MAINS
- Braised Beef and
Handmade Noodles P. 9 1
•• Cauliflower
Okonomiyaki P. 7 7
•• Charred Vegetable
Ragù P. 4 5
- Kombu Roast Chicken
with Kabocha Squash
and Daikon P. 5 1
- Oven-Braised Veal Stew
with Black Pepper and
Cherries P. 3 1
Polenta Dutch Baby
with Ham and Swiss P. 8 1
- Snapper with Preserved
Citrus Gremolata and
Fregola P. 5 0
- Spicy Sesame, Bacon,
and Egg Congee P. 4 8
SWEETS & BAKED GOODS
- Austrian Apple
Pancake P. 1 0 2
•• Blue Corn Piñon
Pancakes P. 8 1
- Earl Grey Tea Bread P. 9 1
•• Japanese Soufflé
Pancakes P. 1 0 2
- Lemon Curd Tart P. 9 1
•• Ricotta Hotcakes
with Honeycomb Toffee
Butter P. 1 0 3
PANTRY
•• Caramelized Onions
P. 3 9
•• Blackberry-Piloncillo
Syrup P. 8 1
J
A
N
U
A
R
Y
R
E
C
I
P
E
S
SNAPPER WITH
PRESERVED CITRUS
GREM O L ATA AND
FREGOLA with
unoaked coastal
Chardonnay: 2016
Scribe Winery
Carneros
31
ILL
US
TR
AT
IO
N:
W
IN
SL
OW
TA
FT