Food & Wine USA - (01)January 2020

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14 JANUARY 2020


2017 THE HILT ESTATE PINOT


NOIR ($45)


The seductive texture of this
wine is hard to resist, with its lay-
ers of black raspberry and cherry
floating on superfine tannins.
Matt Dees, one of the most tal-
ented winemakers in the ocean-
cooled Sta. Rita Hills appellation,
uses a small percentage of
whole-cluster fermentation to
add an ethereal spice note.

HEPPLE GIN ($44)


Maybe it’s because of juniper’s
wintry scent, but I’ve long been
a fan of martinis when it’s freez-
ing out. With gins now defining
themselves by the oddest botani-
cals (bladderwort, anyone?), it’s
nice to find this one, which truly
focuses on juniper by featuring
three different types: Italian,
Macedonian, and wild green juni-
per from northern England.

2017 TABLAS CREEK


GRENACHE BLANC ($30)


Jason Haas’ 2017 Grenache
Blanc is my idea of a winter
white—full-bodied but not heavy,
with notes of pear and melon
and a faint hint of honey, ending
cleanly on chalky minerality. If
you want to get fanciful, it tastes
the way it feels to watch snow fall
outside when you’re inside and
warm feels. Either way, I like it.

What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor

Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month

STAFF-FAVORITE PAIRING


OVEN-BRAISED VEAL STEW WITH


BLACK PEPPER AND CHERRIES


with cherry-scented Georgian red:
2017 Teliani Valley Saperavi

STAFF-FAVORITE


PAIRING


50


key:


  • fa st •vegetarian

    • staff favorite




COCKTAILS & DRINKS


••• Pomegranate-Ginger
Spritz P. 5 8
•• Ruby Red Spritz P. 5 9
•• Spiced Pear Spritz P. 5 9
•• Tarragon-Mint Vodka P. 3 1
•• Winter Tonic P. 1 8
STARTERS & SIDES


  • Beet-and-Horseradish
    Tartare with Fresh Carrot
    Sauce P. 3 5
    •• Coconut-Creamed Swiss
    Chard P. 3 5

  • Garlic Toasts with Lemon
    Aioli and Marinated Beans
    P. 4 6

  • Sausage-Stuffed Fried
    Olives P. 5 2


SOUPS



  • Caldo de Pollo P. 1 0 3
    Everybody Soup P. 1 0 3

  • Herbed Lemongrass
    Broth with Shrimp P. 4 3

  • Orzo and Chickpeas
    with Turmeric-Ginger
    Broth P. 4 2
    •• Salmon Ochazuke P. 4 0
    MAINS

  • Braised Beef and
    Handmade Noodles P. 9 1
    •• Cauliflower
    Okonomiyaki P. 7 7
    •• Charred Vegetable
    Ragù P. 4 5

  • Kombu Roast Chicken
    with Kabocha Squash
    and Daikon P. 5 1

  • Oven-Braised Veal Stew
    with Black Pepper and
    Cherries P. 3 1
    Polenta Dutch Baby
    with Ham and Swiss P. 8 1

    • Snapper with Preserved
      Citrus Gremolata and
      Fregola P. 5 0



  • Spicy Sesame, Bacon,
    and Egg Congee P. 4 8


SWEETS & BAKED GOODS


  • Austrian Apple
    Pancake P. 1 0 2
    •• Blue Corn Piñon
    Pancakes P. 8 1

  • Earl Grey Tea Bread P. 9 1
    •• Japanese Soufflé
    Pancakes P. 1 0 2

  • Lemon Curd Tart P. 9 1
    •• Ricotta Hotcakes
    with Honeycomb Toffee
    Butter P. 1 0 3


PANTRY
•• Caramelized Onions
P. 3 9
•• Blackberry-Piloncillo
Syrup P. 8 1

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SNAPPER WITH


PRESERVED CITRUS


GREM O L ATA AND


FREGOLA with
unoaked coastal
Chardonnay: 2016
Scribe Winery
Carneros

31


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