Food & Wine USA - (01)January 2020

(Comicgek) #1

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JANUARY 2020


ONNOISSEURS HISTORICALLY HAVE shunned in-
stant coffee as a heavily processed shadow of the
bean, lacking in both aroma and flavor. But
change is brewing. Many of our favorite roasters
are gently freezing, dehydrating, and crystalliz-
ing their offerings to preserve those subtle, sweet
notes that attract us to their coffee in the first place. The result?
You can enjoy a high-quality, ethically sourced cup on a busy
travel day, a camping trip, or one of those particularly hectic
weekday mornings.
With the help of Reagan Petrehn, cofounder of 1900 Barker
in Lawrence, Kansas, outside of Kansas City, and head of brand
at New York City’s Felix Roasting Co., we taste-tested 10 instant
coffees to determine which options are just as delicious and
satisfying as the real deal. —OSET BABUR

C


STEEPED COFFEE


DRIFTWOOD BLEND


EXTRA DARK ROAST


Thinner-bodied with some light
notes of black tea and caramel

$1.50 per cup
($15 for a 10-pack,
steepedcoffee.com)

STARBUCKS VIA


INSTANT PIKE PLACE


ROAST


Dark, traditional notes with
molasses, caramelized sugar,
cinnamon, and cloves

$0.75 per cup
($6 for an 8-pack,
ta rget.co m)

TANDEM COFFEE


ROASTERS


TIME AND TEMPERATURE


A bright but sweet medley
of caramel and butterscotch
notes

$2.50 per cup
($15 for a 6-pack,
tandemcoffee.com)

RITUAL


“INSTANT” COFFEE


CRYSTALLIZED BY SUDDEN


Early notes of blueberry, clove,
and green apple with some
floral hints

$4 per cup
($16 for a 4-pack,
ritual.myshopify.com)

INTELLIGENTSIA


ILLUMINATION BLEND


CRYSTALLIZED BY SUDDEN


Burnt toffee and chocolate
notes with hints of cranberry
and citrus

$3.25 per cup
($13 for a 4-pack,
intelligentsiacoffee.com)

VOILÀ


CIRQUE WEIRDO BLEND


Complex and balanced with
juicy notes of white grapes and
blackberries

$3.20 per cup
($16 for a 5-pack,
voila.coffee)

TANDEM COFFEE


ROASTERS


DALECHO


Blackberry, plum, and candied
lemon notes, plus some unde-
niable hints of dark chocolate

$2.50 per cup
($15 for a 6-pack,
tandemcoffee.com)

SWIFT CUP COFFEE


BURUNDI LONG MILES


NATURAL


Very rich, nutty, and full-
bodied notes of chicory,
molasses, and cocoa

$2.50 per cup
($15 for a 6-pack,
swiftcupcoffee.com)

CANYON COFFEE


INSTANT CELINGA


Strong, developed notes of
peach and caramel with some
pleasing, subtle spices

$3.33 per cup
($20 for a 6-pack,
canyoncoffee.co)

SWIFT CUP COFFEE


MAINSTAY BLEND


Subtle notes of pecan and pra-
line, as well as red apple and
grape. It’s a crowd-pleaser.

$2.33 per cup
($14 for a 6-pack,
swiftcupcoffee.com)

BRAND RATING TASTING NOTES WHAT’S INSIDE PRICE


Lancaster, PA–
based Swift’s sea-
sonal offering

Small-lot coffee
from Mutana Hill in
Burundi

Batch-brewed
coffee from
Celinga, Ethiopia

Our favorite from
Voilà’s Discovery
Box of five coffees

Ethiopian coffee
from Portland,
ME’s Tandem

Rotating seasonal
espresso blend

Organic coffee
from Hambela
Gotiti, Ethiopia

Blend of coffees
from Ethiopia and
the Peruvian Andes

Medium roast
blend of Latin
American coffees

Sachets of coffee
from Cauca,
Colombia
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