40 JANUARY 2020
H
A
N
D
B
O
O
K
THIS YEAR, I’VE RESOLVED TO DRINK MORE TEA, not just because
it’s a cozy winter pastime, but because of the time it affords me.
Steeping and sipping tea has trained me to reset, relax, and ap-
preciate simpler things. Brewed tea has even become my go-to
brothy base for leftovers, which I’ve learned is quite common
around the globe. For instance, in Japan, green tea is poured over
leftover rice to make ochazuke, a nourishing, comforting meal
that comes together in as long as it takes to boil water. I first learned
of ochazuke when I ate it at 29B Teahouse in New York City. In
addition to rice and salmon, their version has pickles, umeboshi
(Japanese pickled plums), and sesame, which are all bathed in
karigane hojicha, a green tea. The recipes here are inspired by that
one transcendent dish and by my newfound appreciation for all
things simple. —JUSTIN CHAPPLETea for Two These soothing, easybowls share one secret ingredient.MAD GENIUS TIPS
Salmon Ochazuke
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 2Japanese ochazuke—rice served in green
tea, water, or broth—is the epitome of
simplicity. The soothing, toasty flavor of
genmaicha, Japanese green tea cut with
puffed rice, provides a broth-like base for
leftover rice. Don’t have all the listed top-
pings on hand? Try with leftover lean
protein, like chicken or tofu, and a mix of
herbs and pickles.2 cups water
3 single-serving genmaicha
(Japanese green tea with roasted
brown rice) tea bags(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
11 / 2 cups hot cooked white sushi rice
2 (4-oz.) hot-smoked salmon fillets,
skin discarded and flesh flaked
Sliced scallion, shredded roasted
nori, pickled ginger, furikake
seasoning, and wasabi paste, for
serving
- Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a teapot
or small saucepan over high; remove from
heat. Add tea bags and^1 / 4 teaspoon salt.
Cover and steep 2 to 3 minutes. - Divide rice and salmon evenly between
2 bowls. Remove and discard tea bags;
pour tea around salmon and rice. Sprinkle
evenly with remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon salt.
Serve with desired toppings.
WINE Lightly herbal Grüner Veltliner: 2018
Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel
NOTE Genmaicha is available on Amazon;
we like the Yamamotoyama brand.
COOK
THE
COVER
FO
OD
ST
YL
IN
G:^
CH
EL
SE
A^ Z
IM
ME
R;^
PR
OP
ST
YL
IN
G:
TH
OM
D
RIV
ER
photography by GREG DUPREE