JANUARY 2020 45
CHARRED VEGETABLE RAGÙ
COMFORT FOOD TAKES MANY FORMS. For me, it’s a Sunday sauce.
One filled with fat tomatoes and that has simmered all day, deepen-
ing in flavor, its scent perfuming my home. But on weeknights after
work, when I need that slow-cooked comfort most, I want it in a
hurry. That’s when I look for a quick but intense cooking method
that builds flavor fast.
Cue the broiler, which I use to infuse my hearty vegetarian ragù
with smoky richness. I set the roughly chopped mirepoix (a com-
bination of yellow onion, celery, and carrots, with some portobellos
and garlic for good measure) under the broiler to create a charred
crust that adds layers of smoky flavor. Plenty of cremini mush-
rooms, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and dry red wine round out the
sauce on the stove. Ladled over a pile of tagliatelle and topped with
more cheese, this nourishing sauce tastes slow-cooked and com-
forting, especially on a wintry weeknight. —KELSEY YOUNGMANF&W COOKS
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the hashtag #fwcooks.mixture to a food processor. Pulse until
finely chopped, about 4 times; set aside.- Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large,
deep skillet over medium-high. Add crem-
ini mushrooms; cook until bottoms of
mushrooms are browned, about 3 min-
utes. Stir and cook until browned on all
sides, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste
and oregano; cook, stirring constantly,
about 1 minute. Add wine; cook, stirring
constantly, until slightly thickened, about 1
minute. Stir in roasted vegetable mixture;
season with salt and pepper. Remove from
heat. - Bring a large pot of salted water to a
boil over high. Cook pasta according to
package directions for al dente. Drain,
reserving 1^1 / 2 cups cooking liquid. Trans-
fer cooked pasta to skillet with sauce, and
return to heat over medium. Add cheese
and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Stir in
reserved cooking liquid,^1 / 2 cup at a time,
until sauce is creamy, about 3 minutes.
Season with salt to taste. Divide pasta
among 4 warm bowls; top with grated
cheese.
MAKE AHEAD Ragù sauce can be prepared,
cooled completely, and stored in an air-
tight container in refrigerator up to 3 days.
WINE Smoky Italian red: 2014
Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi
NOTE To make this dish vegan, omit the
cheese, or use vegan cheese, such as
Violife Just Like Parmesan.
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 4
4 large portobello mushrooms,
stemmed and quartered
1 garlic head
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
2 celery stalks, cut into thirds
2 carrots, peeled and cut into thirds
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
8 oz. fresh cremini mushrooms,
stemmed and quartered(^1) / 2 cup tomato paste
2 tsp. dried oregano
(^1) / 2 cup dry red wine
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
(^1) / 2 tsp. black pepper
12 oz. uncooked bronze-cut durum
wheat tagliatelle pasta (such as
Seggiano Organic)
2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
grated (about^1 / 2 cup), plus more for
serving
- Preheat broiler to low with oven rack in
middle of oven. Toss together portobellos,
garlic, onion, celery, carrots, and 1 table-
spoon oil on a large rimmed baking sheet
lined with parchment paper. Spread in a
single layer. Broil in preheated oven until
vegetables are charred in spots, about 20
minutes, rotating pan and flipping vegeta-
bles halfway through. Let cool 5 minutes.
Squeeze roasted garlic out of skins; dis-
card skins. Transfer garlic and vegetable
photography by VICTOR PROTASIO