66 JANUARY 2020
T
R
A
V
E
L
EVERY DAY IN LISBON IS A LEG DAY. One of Western Europe’s old-
est cities was built on seven hills that are so steep, some streets
have special elevators just to help you ascend them. For the ones
that don’t, the level of exertion is necessary if you happen to
have eaten six custard tarts before noon in a comparative pastéis
de nata tasting. (Pro tip: Pastéis de Belém’s eggy numbers are the
best; Manteigaria Silva’s vanilla-y ones come in a close second.)
I’m in the city at the start of a Windstar itinerary called
Tapestries, Towers, and Tarte Normande, an eight-day sailing
from Lisbon to Amsterdam. The cruise line’s itineraries along
Europe’s West Coast are the most popular, and they evolve every
year: In 2020 it’s Autumn on the Atlantic Coast in September,
and in July the following year it’s Cruising the Atlantic Coast.
(Both are James Beard Foundation sailings with a guest chef
and sommelier on board.) It’s an efficient and charming way
to traverse the Atlantic coast without driving or flying, and, if
you’re a non-cruiser, Windstar is for you: Its all-suite ships are
luxurious, relaxed, and have more of an à la carte philosophy.
This bodes well for the independent traveler.
The cruise on board the Star Breeze wasn’t all smooth sailing.
With a storm rolling across Europe, Mother Nature threatened,
and our captain heeded her warning, changing course to avoid
it. Two ports were dropped from the itinerary, and we spent
two rocky days at sea. No matter, the ship’s general manager
and crew dealt with the guests’ disappointment with infectious
grace, humor, and excellent hospitality.
That’s how we spent two nights in Porto instead of one. Por-
tugal’s second-largest city is fabulously smooshed into a hillside
Europe à la Carte F&W editor Melanie
Hansche attempts a vacation with balance
on a west Atlantic coast sailing.
TRAVEL JOURNAL
PH
OT
OG
RA
PH
Y^ (
CL
OC
KW
ISE
FR
OM
LE
FT
):^
GE
TT
Y^ I
MA
GE
S/
RO
BE
RT
H
AR
DI
NG
W
OR
LD
IM
AG
ER
Y;^
CO
UR
TE
SY
W
IN
DS
TA
R^ C
RU
IS
ES
;^
CH
AR
ISS
A^ F
AY
;^ G
ET
TY
IM
AG
ES
/R
OB
ER
T^ H
AR
DI
NG
W
OR
LD
IM
AG
ER
Y;^
CH
AD
CH
IS
HO
LM
/C
OU
RT
ES
Y^ W
IN
DS
TA
R^ C
RU
IS
ES
