JANUARY 2020 67
clockwise from left:
Charming canals
encircle the Belgian
town of Bruges; both
canned and grilled
sardines are to be
found on most menus
in Lisbon and Porto;
Lisbon’s seven hills
mean you are never far
from rooftop views; a
selection of port
vintages at Symington
Family Estates in Porto;
a lighthouse on the
rugged coast of Jersey
island, a self-
governing dependency
of Britain.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
If you have one meal in Lisbon,
make it lunch at Prado. This
former cookie factory with
greenhouse vibes is helmed by
Nuno Mendes’ protégé António
Galapito, who serves simple,
elevated riffs on his native cui-
sine. Think raw mackerel with
pops of tangelo rind or squid in
its ink draped in melty sheets of
lardo, alongside a wine list domi-
nated by biodynamic or organic
wines. (pradorestaurante.com)Craft gin is just as hot in Lisbon
as it is in other world capitals,
but where else could you
drink 80-odd different ones
in a former 19th-century royal
palace? Gin Lovers has kept
some of the gorgeous dilapi-
dated patina of the old palace
as the backdrop for this bar and
restaurant. They also produce
their own gin in partnership with
a local distiller: the pretty, floral
Lisboa Gin. (ginlovers.pt)When visiting port houses in
Porto, start on the waterfront at
Ramos Pinto, where the beauti-
fully preserved digs of its former
owner Adriano now serve as a
lively museum. It’s worth taking
the official tour before you taste.
Tay l o r ’s is the most tradition-
ally British and historic of the
houses, a bit stuffy but worth a
visit for the grounds and cellar
alone. The modern and austere
Cockburn’s tasting room is very
cool indeed (and as a bonus
they carry all the wines under
the Symington Family Estates
banner to buy, including
Graham’s, Warre’s, and Dow’s).
It’s a great place to sip a white
port and tonic.If you happen to dock in Cher-
bourg on market day, go to
the market in the town square
to try the local version of rice
pudding, teurgoule. Sold in little
pots, it’s slow-cooked, resulting
in a concentrated, caramelized
texture and flavor.You could stop at any number
of breweries in Bruges, but
for a place that speaks to the
innovative young heart of the
city, try De Republiek, which is
an art space, cinema, bar, and
restaurant. The lunch of the day
could be a delicious, elevated
take on pork cheeks with mus-
tard sauce, celeriac mash, and
roasted carrot topped with
toasted caraway and buck-
wheat. (republiekbrugge.be)along the Douro River, dotted with narrow, brightly tiled homes
of former merchants and fishermen. Gaia, across the river from
Porto, is the epicenter of port wine production, and you would
do well to lose yourself in its winding lanes and port houses for
a day (see our recommendations at right).
Our remaining ports of call included Cherbourg in France,
Bruges in Belgium, and Saint Helier on Jersey island. Cherbourg
is a popular port for cruise ships because of its proximity to the
D-Day beaches, but it is also close to Normandy’s apple orchards
and the heart of cider and Calvados production. If you’re lucky
enough to be there in spring, the apple orchards are in full
bloom, and you can pick up some excellent souvenirs in liquid
form—and an apple tart or two.
Because of our compacted itinerary, we breezed through the
beer- and chocolate-themed fantasy that is Bruges and only had
half a day on Jersey (a tax haven like the Caymans—but with
cows). It’s a self-governing dependency of Britain, and we had
enough time to get a taste of its deep sense of independence, as
well as its excellent butter, sausage rolls, and pasties.
Being stuck at sea for two days was not so bad, really. Not
when there are spa treatments to be had, martinis to be drunk
(note: do not do this in a 15-foot swell), and snacks to be eaten.
Every time I tried to visit the gym to counter my indulgences, it
was packed, testimony to the fact that guests want to keep up
their fitness routines while on vacation. Windstar recognized
that some time ago and is currently upgrading the Star Breeze
and two of its sister ships—they will essentially be cleaved in
half and extended to include a much bigger fitness facility, spa,
and extra dining options. They’ll be back on the water starting
in February 2020.
This is good news for those who value the wellness offerings
on a ship as much as good food and booze. The renovated ships
will be home to two new restaurants: Star Grill, by barbecue
master, TV host, and cookbook author Steven Raichlen; and
tapas bar Cuadro 44, a small-plates concept by Michelin-starred
NYC chef Anthony Sasso. Sounds like two more good reasons to
hit the gym at sea. (From $1,699, windstarcruises.com)