73
DESSERT VS.
BREAKFAST
When Sherry Yard
was pastry chef at
Spago in Beverly
Hills, she had a
kaiserschmarrn, or
Austrian torn pan-
cake, on her menu.
Margarita Manzke,
then a cook at Patina,
frequented Spago
with her husband,
Walter, just for that
pancake. These days,
the couple operates
République, a French
bistro in Los Angeles,
where the week-
end brunch menu
includes Margarita’s
Austrian Apple
Pancake (see p. 102
for the recipe), her
ode to Yard’s kaiser-
schmarrn. “I thought
kaiserschmarrn
would be a great way
to feature a seasonal
fruit, kind of a blank
canvas,” Manzke
says. “I do it my own
way.” While a tradi-
tional kaiserschmarrn
is composed of torn-
up pancake strips,
Manzke serves hers
whole, placing fruit
on the bottom of the
pan and topping it
with ice cream and
powdered sugar.