100 JANUARY 2021
- Remove shrimp and mussels from
ice water, and drain in a colander. Peel
shrimp, and shuck mussels, reserv-
ing some mussels in shells for garnish,
if desired; reserve shrimp and mussel
shells. Add reserved shells and reserved
scallop side muscles to water mixture in
saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-
high. Reduce heat to medium-low; sim-
mer, stirring occasionally, until liquid
reduces to about 3 cups, 20 to 25 min-
utes. Meanwhile, remove remaining sea-
food from ice bath; pat dry, and set aside.
- Remove saucepan with seafood mix-
ture from heat; pour mixture through
a fine wire-mesh strainer into a large
heatproof bowl, and discard solids. Set
strained stock aside. Wipe saucepan
clean.
- Roughly chop remaining onion half and
remaining 2 celery stalks, keeping sepa-
rate. Add oil to cleaned saucepan; heat
over medium. Add onion; cook, stirring
often, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir
in celery and carrots; cook, stirring often,
until slightly softened but not browning,
4 to 6 minutes. Add tomato paste, pars-
ley, thyme, paprika, crushed red pepper,
garlic, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt.
Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture is
fragrant and vegetables are well coated
in tomato mixture, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir
in reserved seafood stock; cook over
medium, stirring occasionally, until fla-
vors meld and mixture reduces to about 3
cups, 10 to 15 minutes.
- Set aside 4 cooked shrimp and^1 / 4 cup
mixed mussels, scallops, and squid for
garnish. Add heavy cream and remain-
ing cooked seafood to stock mixture in
saucepan. Reduce heat to low; cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until seafood is heated
through, 8 to 10 minutes.
- Transfer seafood mixture to a blender.
Secure lid on blender, and remove center
piece to allow steam to escape. Place a
clean towel over opening. Process until
smooth, about 1 minute, adding water, 2
tablespoons at a time, if needed to thin
bisque to desired consistency. Season
with salt to taste.
- Divide bisque evenly among bowls;
garnish evenly with reserved seafood and
additional parsley. Serve with baguette.
—JAMILA ROBINSON
WINE Tart, minerally French white: 2019
Domaines Landron La Louvetrie
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley, plus more for garnish
1 tsp. roughly chopped fresh thyme
3 /^4 tsp. smoked paprika
1 /^4 tsp. crushed red pepper, or more to
taste
3 medium garlic cloves, smashed
1 /^2 cup heavy cream
Baguette, for serving
- Cut 1 onion half into 4 wedges, leaving
root end attached. Cut 1 celery stalk in half
crosswise; set remaining onion and celery
aside. Combine onion wedges, celery
halves, 5 cups water, bay leaf, black pep-
per, and^1 / 4 teaspoon salt in a large sauce-
pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Fill a
medium bowl with ice water; set aside.
- Add shrimp to boiling water mixture in
saucepan; cook until opaque and cooked
through, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer shrimp to prepared ice
bath. Add mussels to saucepan; cook until
mussels open, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer
mussels to ice bath, discarding any mus-
sels that did not open. Add scallops and
squid to saucepan; cook until scallops
and squid rings turn opaque, about 1 min-
ute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer scal-
lops and squid to ice bath. Reserve water
mixture in saucepan.
IT WAS WITH MY French lover that I first encountered the word “le quignon.” The
rounded heel of a baguette was being used to sop up the brothy bits from roast
chicken that had seeped onto the plate. The word stood out to me for the specificity
of its function. It wasn’t just a torn corner of loaf—it had a purpose: helping scrape
down the sides of a bowl or savor the herby mirepoix that had escaped a puree.
My partner and I had reached the spoons-down, sop-it-up stage of our rela-
tionship. Our hands were busy, too: one hand held the side of the bowl, while
the other engaged the craggy corner of the quignon, coaxing bits of seafood
bisque into our mouths.
We would never eat like this in a restaurant. In those settings, I’d pay attention
to my table manners, and so much would be left behind in the bowl.
Laid-back eating habits often only take place in the comfort of one’s home,
shared amongst family, close friends, and loved ones. When sitting across from
your lover, it’s acceptable to lick frosting off your wrist, double-dip chopsticks
in the communal rice, or hover over caldo de pollo as your quignon absorbs the
tangy broth.
Ultimately, the quignon gets to the bottom of everything, touching the depths
of any dish. It helps you put down your spoon—and your guard—and savor. When
you’re done, your elbows can go back on the table. —JAMILA ROBINSON
FREEING THE QUIGNON
French Seafood Bisque
with Baguette
TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN; SERVES 4
The freshest seafood—preferably sourced
from your local fishmonger—is the high-
light of this velvety-smooth bisque. Take
care to cook each type of seafood as
directed to preserve its delicate flavor and
texture. This resourceful recipe uses every
last bit of your briny haul to yield a rich
seafood stock that enhances this thick,
soppable soup.
1 small yellow onion, halved, divided
3 small celery stalks, divided
5 cups water, plus more if needed
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
1 / 4 tsp. black pepper
11 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
to taste
8 oz. unpeeled raw extra-large shrimp
4 oz. Prince Edward Island (PEI)
mussels, scrubbed and debearded
4 oz. bay scallops, side muscles
removed and reserved
3 oz. cleaned small squid tubes and
tentacles, tubes cut into^1 / 4 -inch
rings, tentacles left whole
1 /^4 cup olive oil or unsalted butter
3 medium carrots, roughly chopped
(about^1 /^2 cup)
