6 JANUARY 2021
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201 6 LA CAPILLA RIBERA DEL
DUERO CRIANZA ($33)
Want a quick trip to Spain? This
Ribera del Duero will take you
there. The dark, sweet blueberry
and black currant fruit; vanilla
notes from oak; and warm earthi-
ness feel inarguably Spanish to
me—put out a plate of jamón
Ibérico and some good Man-
chego, and bienvenido a España.
201 7 NAPANOOK ($60)
Bordelais vintner Christian
Moueix’s Dominus is one of Cali-
fornia’s greatest Cabernets.
Napanook, the winery’s more
affordable second wine, is pri-
marily Cabernet Sauvignon, and
the 2 01 7 vintage washes over the
palate in a warmly spicy black-
cherry wave, ending on firm, ripe
tannins. Winter stew? Bring it on.
HOPPIN’ JOHN WITH
TURNIPS AND TURNIP GREENS
with bright, citrusy Sauvignon
Blanc: 2019 Wairau River
STAFF-FAVORITE PAIRING
key:
SIDES & SALADS
- Buttermilk Cornbread P. 10
•• Endives in Schmaltz with
Peanuts P. 75
•• Grilled Verona Radicchio
with Bottarga and
Wild Apple Molasses P. 69
•• Kiribath with Lunu
Miris (Coconut Rice
with Sambal) P. 35
- Namasu P. 83
- Puntarelle-Citrus
Salad with Roasted
Beets P. 71
MEAT
- Braised Oxtails
with Carrots and
Chiles P. 26
London Broil with
Rosemary and
Thyme P. 31
Mole Verde con
Pollo with Corn
Tortillas P. 99
- Poulet Mafé P. 84
SEAFOOD
•• Brown Sugar–Glazed
Salmon with Buttery
Roasted Squash P. 42
- Coconut Shrimp
Curry with Bara P. 103
Tuna Melts with
Pickled Chicories P. 71
VEGETARIAN MAINS
- Escarole
Shakshuka P. 69
•• Kale and Artichoke
Stuffed Shells P. 38
•• Khichdi P. 84
•• Kibbeh Bil Sanieh P. 83
- Oto (Mashed Yam
Patties) P. 37
•• Tadka Dal
with Roti P. 102
SOUPS & STEWS
French Seafood
Bisque with
Baguette P. 100
- Hoppin’ John with
Turnips and Turnip
Greens P. 32
- Yayla Çorbası
(Turkish Yogurt Soup)
with Velibah P. 102
DESSERTS & DRINKS
•• Brown Butter,
Radicchio, and
Parsnip Cake P. 75
•• Lemon Cake with
Cream Cheese
Frosting P. 41
- Rosy Hibiscus-
Gin Lowball P. 46
- Vietnamese Flan
with Chicory
Coffee P. 72
What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor
Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month
2019 PENFOLDS BIN 311
CHARDONNAY ($40)
At a tasting in late 2020, I was
blown away by the interplay of
succulent fruit and minerality
(think wet stones and light brini-
ness) in this cool-climate Char-
donnay from Aussie mainstay
Penfolds. It’s beautiful now, but I
predict it will also age well for a
decade or so.
42
STAFF-FAVORITE
PAIRING
BROWN SUGAR–
GLAZED SALMON
WITH BUTTERY
ROASTED SQUASH
with full-bodied
Sonoma Chardonnay:
2017 Rodney Strong
Chalk Hill
32
ILL
US
TR
ATION: R
ACHEL
CARNE
Y